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#1
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I too could not believe the first time I had a magnet interfere with the welding arc. I kept trying to figure it out.
Until I removed the magnet I had no clue that was the issue.
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
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scuncio (01-19-2022), Too Many Projects (01-19-2022) |
#2
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Monday, I prepped the outer and inner rockers for spot welding them on the bottom.
I love the factory appearance of these welds. No further grinding or dressing needed. I got both sides done and went to take a pic and the battery in the camera went dead...figures. I then cut out the left inner wheel house and drilled out the remaining spot welds of the rear inner wall and cargo floor. It was then that the sides got REALLY floppy !! First thing this morning, I got the floor and walls back centered and built this bracing to hold it in position. With things stabilized again, I cut out the right inner wheel house and drilled out the remaining welds on that side too. This brace is part of the cargo floor and welded to the rear crossmember. The flange and welds are on the inside and I can't get at them, so I had to cut the flange off to be removed later. Drilled out all but 4 of the welds across the back and the time bell rang. I didn't want to get any deeper into it today anyway, as once I pull this out, the body may need more bracing. That will be tomorrows task.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
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