Valve Lash Adjustment: running or not?

[bitfactr]

I bought two sets of feeler gauges; one straight, and a second with a slight angle at the last 3/4". I tried the latter first; they were a pain. The straight set worked better for me.

I did read about "go/no-go" feeler gauges, where the first 1/2" or so is .002 less. I was constantly going back and forth between .011, .012 and .013. The go/no-go set would have been great to have. I'll be ordering a set for next time.

The other thing that consumed time for me was getting the bump-switch hooked up. It's difficult to reach the S terminal on the solenoid on a hot engine without getting burned, which I did. I'm considering some type of temporary, very well insulated, lead I could install while cold.

Thanks Rob for letting me know that I have some room for error without causing damage. I'm wondering now if the minutes I took in hooking up the bump-switch and popping the valve cover, was enough to have the engine start to cool and effect the adjustment. The rockers were still hot to the point I could only touch them for a split second with my finger tips, so I'm not too worried.

[bitfactr]

Forgot. The multiple valve adjustment procedure that Belair62 mentions is like the procedure described in the '70's era manuals I have. I was going to go with that, as it should certainly work, but when I started to post, the EOIC method seemed a little more goof-proof for a first timer. But thanks for the info.

[TDW]

The other thing that consumed time for me was getting the bump-switch hooked up. It's difficult to reach the S terminal on the solenoid on a hot engine without getting burned, which I did. I'm considering some type of temporary, very well insulated, lead I could install while cold

I installed a small plastic block on the firewall of my Nova just for that purpose. It is an original GM part, but I don't remember what it was from. Basically, just a block with 2 studs and a mounting ear. I ran a #10 wire from the starter to one stud, the other stud is where I hook one of the leads on the remote button. The other lead on the remote just hooks to the Pos side of the battery. Works great.

[Chevy454]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 68Tom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guys, what valve lash measuring tool would you recommend?

This has been an interesting thread. Very informative.

Dennis, glad to see you're out exercising the car after all that work! </div></div>
I just use a feeler guage, plus a wrench, and an allen wrench...(I've got poly locks). I've always thought I'd buy a go/no-go guage, but once you get a feel for doing it with the feeler guages (that I already had), you can do it with your eyes closed.

[Belair62]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mr70</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do we really have to wash our hands?</div></div>
No Rick...you can keep yours dirty. But the rest of you really should.

[markjohnson]

I don't know if you have Roller rockers or not, but just in case you do, it is much more accurate to slide the feeler gauger in from the side to prevent the roller tip from rolling and giving an inaccurate measurement. Something else I've always wondered about is if anybody else here feels that you lose some of solid lifter sound (that &quot;clackity&quot; sound) when you upgrade to aluminum roller rockers. It's always seemed to me that the thick aluminum body of the roller rocker possibly dampens that particular sound. Anybody else ever pick up on this or is it just me?

[Belair62]

I think it is a bit quieter Mark. I have rollers and I just feel my way thru and don't go in sideways !

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: markjohnson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Something else I've always wondered about is if anybody else here feels that you lose some of solid lifter sound (that &quot;clackity&quot; sound) when you upgrade to aluminum roller rockers. It's always seemed to me that the thick aluminum body of the roller rocker possibly dampens that particular sound. Anybody else ever pick up on this or is it just me? </div></div>

Same deal for me too. But then again, my wife says I'm deaf. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]

Wayne

[Mr70]

<span style="font-style: italic">&quot;Something else I've always wondered about is if anybody else here feels that you lose some of solid lifter sound (that &quot;clackity&quot; sound) when you upgrade to aluminum roller rockers.&quot;</span>

We argued this exact subject at one of our cruise nights last year.Walt switched to Al.,&amp; when he pulled up,some even thought he switched over to hydraulic.
Definitely a different sound then previous.

[Verne_Frantz]

I guess I'm just old fashioned, lazy or I just don't want to remember what &quot;sequence&quot; some proven procedure dictates. I just do each cylinder at a time.
I loosen both, then bump it around until the gauge is loose, then I tighten the nut until it's good, then bump it again. If it gets loose again, I tighten it down again. I repeat that until the after the last bump, the feeler gauge won't go in. I know I've covered the base circle that way and the lash isn't too loose or too tight. That's just easier for me then having to remember some IOECOEICOCIC 90deg, 180deg, 360deg ++ -- thing. Once around the block and I'm done and I don't have to remember a thing about &quot;how&quot; I should remember how far to turn it or which valve to run around the car and find or worry about forgetting one.

I do them cold and add .002 to the hot spec. Maybe I should add more on the exhaust then the intake, but that's the way I do it. I really don't think +or- .001&quot; will matter on a fun car.

Verne [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img]