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#1
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From my understanding you cannot restore original still plates that have the rivets for the Fisher Body emblem. So, who is making the most accurate reproduction sill plates? I sure would like to use my originals because they are in good condition, but I feel they need something to look like they did when they came out of the factory.
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#2
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69 RS/Z 302 VE3 Daytona 69 Chevelle SS 396 375 69 T/A clone LS6/6 speed 90 Formula 350 |
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mhm1966 (02-22-2022) |
#3
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I don't see why not. I bought a lot of maybe 20 sill plates in generally bad condition at a swap meet, because a few had near-pristine Fischer Body emblems. I ground off the back of the rivets, and installed the original Fischer emblems on newer NOS sill plates. I just drilled out the sill plates, and epoxied the remains of the original rivets from the back side.
I don't see why you couldn't remove the Fischer emblems, similar to how I did, polish the sill plates, and then reinstall the emblems |
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mhm1966 (02-22-2022) |
#4
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That is what I was thinking of doing but wanted to get some input on how to restore them. Is the finish supposed to be satin or shiny? Getting back to the reproductions, I do not see any difference in HBC sill plates compared to OER except for the price. They both have the rivets.
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#5
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I did something similar on mu '70 Cutlass prior to MCACN this past fall. The NOS sill plates didn't have the rivets.
I put a piece of tape over the front of the Fisher Body tag on my factory plates since the rivet is so tiny and I didn't want to risk losing it. I took a grinding wheel to the back side of the plate to get the rivet loose. Pulled the rivet out and kept it in a safe spot until I drilled a hole in the NOS plates. The smallest dab of super glue and some tweezers helped get the factory rivet in to the NOS plates.
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1970 Cutlass S W-31 - platinum, blue stripes, blue buckets, M14 3-spd 1970 Cutlass Supreme Y74 Pace Car #79 - IU Little 500 Pace Car 1970 442 - white, red stripes, white buckets, M21 4-spd |
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mhm1966 (02-22-2022), olredalert (02-22-2022) |
#6
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This is an NOS sill plate with the factory rivet removed from the original plates and installed in the NOS plate.
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1970 Cutlass S W-31 - platinum, blue stripes, blue buckets, M14 3-spd 1970 Cutlass Supreme Y74 Pace Car #79 - IU Little 500 Pace Car 1970 442 - white, red stripes, white buckets, M21 4-spd |
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mhm1966 (02-22-2022), olredalert (02-22-2022) |
#7
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IF not mistaken The Aluminum sill plates are clear anodized originally.
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
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olredalert (02-24-2022) |
#9
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Yes - they are Bright Dip Anodized...a different process compared to regular clear anodizing. Extremely hard to redo nicely on a door sill plate where there are all the little ridges, nooks and crannies. Best bet is as mentioned above...install original rivets on NOS plates.
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Patton Glade 70Post Restorations Austin, TX |
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mhm1966 (02-25-2022) |
#10
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![]() Quote:
__________________
~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
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