1971 Corvette TI ignition opinion please!!

[DaveC68]

I recently picked up a 71 Lt-1, the original carb and ignition system where MIA. I have remedied the carb with Eric Jackson. But, have no knowledge of the TI system. It currently has a Mallory tach drive with blaster coil, It has no issues, but I prefer my cars to be factory correct appearing at least. So question is; am I going to spend a bunch of money to go back to the TI system and run into problems, dependability issues? Like I said I have no experience with them or their performance reputation. Also thought of sending a spare stock tach drive distributor out for a rebuild and just install an aftermarket magnetic points replacement system in it....at least a little closer to original appearance. So what are the ins and outs of the TI system? Looking for your opinion BillS!!

[firstgenaddict]

Is the TI AMP box still mounted to the fender well on the drivers side behind the headlamp.
The 272 coils were never offered in service thus are difficult to find and EXPENSIVE $500 - the reproductions are not worth having.
My Green LT1 has the original box distributor and coil,
The Black LT1 has all of the parts with the car however currently it has a mallory distributor.
I imagine it could run 1500 - 2000 to convert the car back if you have to buy everything.

YOU COULD put a points distributor and coil with a TI coil label and dummy the TI harness.

They make solid state circuit boards for the amplifiers and they generally do not have problems.
You can also service the original boards yourself with new MUCH BETTER transistors for less than $100 in parts.
The systems are good for 10k RPM and unlike points have no wear points like the distributor lobes or the actual points faces.

[DaveC68]

Originally Posted by firstgenaddict

Is the TI AMP box still mounted to the fender well on the drivers side behind the headlamp.

Been meaning to look, and finally did. Yes its there. I have receipts from the restoration in 1998 and a reproduction TI harness was purchased.
I assume it is still in place. I can see why they probably did not remove the AMP box when they replaced the TI distributor. wow! not the easliest place to access.

I fear buying all the right components to return to stock only to find the "new" parts need to be rebuilt and restored.
Thanks for some education!!

[DaveC68]

The son of the previous owner who had the restoration done took possession of the car toward the end, and along with changing the ignition, had assorted ARP bolts installed as well as chrome hold down and thermostat housing. What belongs in the manifold vacuum port with the blue anodized plug?

[DaveC68]

A few shots to share.

[olredalert]

----Looking at your very cool LT1 and the fact that you have the harness and the box (weather it works presently or not) if it was me I'd find a distributer and chase down a reasonably priced coil and you are home. You don't have to have down time as you already have a running driving car. Take your time. Maybe the guys and I will keep our eyes open. You won't regret this scenario!......Bill S

[firstgenaddict]

BTW... NICE LT1 Roadster I am guessing Sunflower Yellow - Black leather, vinyl covered hardtop tilt tele! Which trans and gear?

Build date between end of Nov and 2nd week of March?
It has a 5 port washer pump with 2 ports jumped - which is common for Nov - early march - Cars before the strike have headlamp washers. After the strike no washers but the pump was the same until mid march.
It's got a 71 LS6 fuel line and a later waterpump.
The correct waterpump for a 71-72 is a 3991399 and they are not very common, If not mistaken there are 4 dates they were made.
I believe that the passenger exhaust manifold is a Fuelie or off of an earlier car with the port for the choke tube.


The fuel line and block look just like a 69 -72 Z28 - along with the rear fuel line support.
Rear intake hole should have a fitting for the Power brakes and then another port for the vacuum take off.

Here are photos of the fitting and the pipe which bolts to the throttle cable bracket.

The first photo was taken the day the car arrived and The STAMP RITE bracket should have had an indented hex head screw not a pan head phillips. (it is correct now)
You can check the COILS with a Ohm meter across the terminals, the regular coil reads 1.6 ohms the TI reads much less - under 1 ohm.

[1971ls6]

I think the guru is dave Fiedler, look up vette ti ignition.

Do you have a stock tach drive distributor, you can add the ti.

[LT1vette]

Car looks very complete. couple of "easy" fixes. wrong water pump and wrong carb distribution block.
WP easy to find, Paragon Vette parts has the right carb block.
TI stuff is coming down in price, if you are looking for a numbers matching car then call Fiedler. But Fbay has stuff all the time.
The ONLY way to get the LT1 to run properly , as an LT1 is to have the CORRECT distributor shaft and top piece for it. Those two pieces are the "secret" to getting the the car to run properly. Fixing the TI will not make this run properly until you have all the pieces....

[Motorhead848]

talk to dave fiedler. have him build you a correct ti set up. if he has a core in stock, youll be money ahead just having him build you a set up. you buy something used, likely youll just be sending him a body...since half the parts are junk. hes not cheap but you wont be disappointed. ive had him do a few for me. his work is superb.