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#1
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Do they make something that attaches to a drill that can spin the distributor shaft if it's already in the engine? Something where you could just remove the rotor and attach a device that would spin the shaft? I'm getting close to firing up the Deuce, and really don't feel like pulling the distributor to use the priming device.
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#2
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69 SS L78 Chevelle 70 SS 396 Chevelle |
#3
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Primer shafts only run the oil pump. You would have to turn the entire engine, because the cam gear is attached. I have primed engines with the coil disconnected and run the starter until oil pressure shows on the gauge
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1967 Camaro conv (first car) 1969 Camaro street car 1967 Super Stock SS/JA Joe Scott car |
#4
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No way to do it with the distributor installed other than to remove the spark plugs and crank it over.
If you decide to buy/build a priming tool, it <span style="text-decoration: underline">must</span> have the part of the body that goes inside the block by the distributor gear--it's the round aluminum part with the groove in the middle on the right of this picture (This is the Crane priming tool). This is required as it completes the oil galley path at the back of the block. Without it (such as the Moroso unit in the 2nd pic), oil will not reach the top of the engine. ![]() ![]() |
#5
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Pressurize a tank of oil and pump it into an oil gallery while turning crankshaft, like an accusump.
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1968 Camaro |
#6
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ds1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Primer shafts only run the oil pump. You would have to turn the entire engine, because the cam gear is attached. I have primed engines with the coil disconnected and run the starter until oil pressure shows on the gauge </div></div>
You are right - didn't think about cam gear connected to the camshaft connected to the.... I guess I'm pulling the distributor afterall, what a pita.
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#7
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You've run it before right? I'd just fire it up. There's not much difference between sitting for a week or sitting for a year - all the oil has drained down to the pan. After a couple of revolutions, the engine should see oil moving most everywhere.
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Kurt S - CRG |
#8
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I have run it before, but it hasn't run in about 3 years. I did pour some oil down the pushrods and filled the filter. I'm using this Brad Penn oil as well. I also pulled the plugs and sprayed some WD40 into the cylinders.
I think I'll just crank it, then fire it like you suggest - I stink at getting the distributor back in....
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#9
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Lube on the valvetrain would be my biggest concern. Pulling the valve covers and squirting some oil on the rockers and lifters couldn't hurt. But I wouldn't sweat it.... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img]
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Kurt S - CRG |
#10
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Should say:
Lube on the valvetrain would be the only real concern. Pulling the valve covers and squirting some oil on the rockers and lifters couldn't hurt. But I wouldn't sweat it.... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/smile.gif[/img] Many cars sit for years like this before they are fired off again.
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Kurt S - CRG |
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