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#1
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I heard of one guy using a pencil eraser during the priming stage to make a small dimple to look like the factory spot welds. I seen a picture and it looked real good.
Jason |
#2
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I don't mean to HIJACK, but does anyone still use the resistance spot welders in resto's?
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Jed 69,70,71 Nova's 1955 Bel Air and a 69 Camaro. |
#3
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We have one here in my shop but it not one of the cheep ones. Its a pro spot brand and they are around 12k to buy. Thats how we build camaros here at the shop. It is an awsome tool. I have many pics but I don't know how to put them on this sight. If you want to see them I can email them to some body that can load them
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#4
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[ QUOTE ]
We have one here in my shop but it not one of the cheep ones. Its a pro spot brand and they are around 12k to buy. Thats how we build camaros here at the shop. It is an awsome tool. I have many pics but I don't know how to put them on this sight. If you want to see them I can email them to some body that can load them [/ QUOTE ]Kerry, You do some real nice work!! ![]() |
#5
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Here is an example of my attempt at faking spot welds.
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#6
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Mike, I would be interested in seeing the results using your vice grip approach.
Bob, what method did you use to get those results? A couple of ideas I had were to either use a round punch and hammer or to use a flat end drill bit and just lightly scratch in the circle before prime/paint. I wonder if anyone has tried either of those tricks. Also, just an observation, but it seems like (at least for the 2nd gen birds) the Van Nuys cars had a smoother, more finished off wheel well lip than the Norwood cars. Anyone else into these cars notice this? |
#7
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I used the pencil eraser in wet primer to start with but wasn't really satisfied so I used a hole punch and punched out some sandpaper discs that I used with a Dremel tool. The factory welds were pretty sloppy looking on my car so my fake welds will be okay. I tried a drill bit but couldn't keep it from wandering all over the place. Good luck.
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