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Old 07-15-2007, 06:31 AM
NCGuy68 NCGuy68 is offline
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Default Re: break in oils

Alot of racers in my neck of the woods break-in with Rotella T and shortly there after, switch to full synthetic. Amsoil 15W50 is popular but keep in mind these are race only engines...not street driven.
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Old 07-15-2007, 06:41 AM
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Default Re: break in oils

Rotella 15w40. I use it in everything, including my Diesel Truck which is actually supposed to run that oil. I buy it in the 5 gallon jugs and keep a bunch handy.
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Old 07-15-2007, 07:18 AM
Chevy454 Chevy454 is offline
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Default Re: break in oils

Last I knew, Rotella was losing the zinc also...kinda like the switch to low sulfur fuel. People are now wondering why their engines are eating cams, just wait until the same thing starts happening to the injector pumps in everyone's diesel truck...but hey, we're saving the environment, right?
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Old 07-15-2007, 07:47 AM
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Default Re: break in oils

The last several engines I've built have been solid flat tappet Chevy engines, 2 big blocks and one small block. I used "EDM" lifters in all three as well as Shell Rotella 15W40 oil. On the 2 big blocks, I removed the inner valve springs for cam break-in (the small block had single springs that weren't very aggressive), and all 3 made it through break-in with absolutely no issues whatsoever. I also use moly lube exclusively on all valvetrain components.

My $.02

Eric
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:08 AM
RamAirDave RamAirDave is offline
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Default Re: break in oils

I blend EOS with Rotella for initial break in.
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Old 07-15-2007, 05:49 PM
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Default Re: break in oils

One other thing I forgot to mention...

Another potential issue that can contribute to cam/lifter failure is a tight or dirty lifter bore. A flat tappet lifter absolutely must be able to rotate freely in its bore...if it can't spin, it will go flat.

As I've mentioned before, as a matter of SOP, I now run a small ball hone through the lifter bores of every engine I build just to make sure there's no varnish or "boogers" left behind after the block has been cleaned.

Afterwards, during mock-up I test-fit the lifters in their bores to make sure they all slide right in and will spin with no effort. You'd be surprised at how many "snug" lifter bores I've encountered even after the block has been cleaned.

Eric
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Old 07-15-2007, 06:23 PM
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Default Re: break in oils

I have been stock piling the older version of Rotella, the one with API rating of CI-4. It has started to be hard to find but if you look you can still find it. I think that retailers are mixing their old stock in with the new so if you look one week and they don't have any, check back the next week and you may find some. The new Rotella oil with the new API rating of CJ-4 has greatly reduced levels of the ZDDP which many of us want in our oil. I don't believe that Shell will make Rotella with the CI-4 rating and the higher levels of ZDDP any more so start looking for it and buy every quart that you can find.
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:33 AM
BBIGG BLOCK 396 BBIGG BLOCK 396 is offline
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Default Re: break in oils

Here is an oil tech report from hughes engines.They build strictly Mopar engines but the information sounds really good to me.I run th additive they sell.I buy it by the case and I have not had any problems yet!As a matter of fact we just fired up my soninlaws 340 dart today and used the rotella and a bottle of this additive.I do know it is some SLICK STUFF!

http://www.hughesengines.com/general...icleID=1000039

also here is the SLICK STUFF they sell!

http://www.hughesengines.com/partDet...amp;eTypeID=20
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Old 07-15-2007, 03:54 PM
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Default Re: break in oils

[ QUOTE ]
Last I knew, Rotella was losing the zinc also...kinda like the switch to low sulfur fuel. People are now wondering why their engines are eating cams, just wait until the same thing starts happening to the injector pumps in everyone's diesel truck...but hey, we're saving the environment, right?

[/ QUOTE ]

Here is a thread from CRG http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=305.0
Read the whole thing through, The Shell Rotella Zinc is still high enough for flap tappet cams, John Z gives the SAE rating #'s in this thread. API CJ-4
and as many others have suggested, use GM EOS during the break in too.
And Erics practice of removing the inner valve springs is good insurance too.
Also most of the racing oils will still have good levels of ZDDP in them.
In this Valoline add they even state an increased level of Zink.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=94
Also do some searching on the WWW and the others Boards about this subject, much has already been discussed.
Mike
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