Construction Question???

[Zedder]

Thanks Steve...that's another good idea! The reason behind concern is that I have seen what moisture can do to frame construction. We had a sprinkler pipe breat at work and the office had 2 inches of water on the floor when we came in the next morning. Believe it or not, when we had moisture tests done, they found that the water had wicked up the drywall 4 ft!!! So maybe a combination of a block base with the green drywall will put my mind at ease given that the garden hose and my kids might be out there together

[BBIGG BLOCK 396]

You can also put a layer of tar paper(THE THICK ONE I BELIEVE IT IS RATED 30#) the same width under the bottom plate of the wall,also use ground contact treated 2X4 for the bottom plate of the wall.That will limit any moisture from coming in contact with the 2X4 bottom Plate!Then use the plastic sheating If you wish on the lower part of the wall but I do not think it would be necessary.It would be a good idea to use the green sheetrock in that area due to possible contact of water.I used to frame homes years and years ago and that was a requirement to use the 30# felt or tar paper on FHA homes.We did not use the treated lumber because it was not readily availiable back then but it is now so I would use that. The contractor should use a heavy plastic put over the dirt before he pours the concrete.This is also a moisture barrier and will prevent moisture from coming up through the cement.If you just want to spend the extra $$$ for the concrete curb or stub wall to lay the bottom plate on.I would think it is going to be just like a curb if layed directly on top of your existing slab,it is going to crack and move with much contact.Although if your contractor sets the forms for it during the initial pour you could make it to where it is a part of your regular slab which would be much stronger and they a can also install some 1/2" bolts to hold the bottom plate for the wall down also.

[71-LS6]

Mark, if your builder's concrete man is any good, a 4" curb is a no brainer. My guys would charge maybe $200 at most and that would be all labor. You're right about water wicking up framed walls with sheetrock. If you are worried about rot, simply use treated lumber and water-board for the wall, stay away from any plastic vapor barrier behind the rock, you want it to be able to dry out after you've soaked it down with your garden hose.

[LVCamaro]

Tyvek

[JoeG]

Murphy's Law--You worry about the water at the floor and the ceiling leaks--If you decide to go with a cement curb and it's not part of the intial slab pour--Make sure you put 1/2 threaded rods into the cement floor to run up thru your cement curb so it doesn't walk.--IMO green board on a vapor barrier sheetunder the floor plate with treated wood will probably outlast you......

[LVCamaro]

it would definitely outlast you, Joe


this is good stuff too:

Bluwood

[Zedder]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate all of the suggestions! I know very little about this sort of stuff and don't want to leave it up to the builder alone to determine the best solution. Thanks again

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

I've got dibbs that Zedd sells this house and buys another before this one is completed!

[SamLBInj]

Your in my area of expertise now and we build walls on slabs on an Island every day. I have done the same thing in my garage as you are doing. You dont need a curb. Here is what you do, Bottom plate is ACQ (You will need to use ACQ for anything that is below flood level). Then frame the wall with doug fir. Use termite sheild. On the Island here we use MR (Moisture resistent drywall) on anything that may get wet otherwise we use 5/8" Fire Code drywall. (if there is living space above garage you need two layers of fire code drywall). Did they put bolts in the floor before hand? If not, you also have to glue the wall down.
Insulate if you want, other than that your done, use a good anti-molding primer like Kilz. You can also use wood looking plastic base trim if your afraid of water damage.
We always install radiant floor heat in any garage slab we do and if you have ever experianced it you would want it. It can be a little pricey if your home isnt using a boiler but smaller garages can be run off a water heater type unit. Just make sure they size the piping right or it won't work right and take forever to circulate through. When done right you don't mind laying on the 80 degree cement If you have a question just ask and I'll help you out.
Sam
PS Steve, we are seeing many problems with tyvek on Ocean or near water front homes where it was installed behind cedar siding as the homes are rotting due to being "too tight" We only use it behind vinyl now. We are also finding many homes completely rotted from ground to ceiling that used EIFS siding. The studs are actually disintegrated and only the paint and drywall are holding everything together. We just rebuilt a 5 million dollar ocean front house that was completely gone that was only 6 years old.

[LVCamaro]

[ QUOTE ]

PS Steve, we are seeing many problems with tyvek on Ocean or near water front homes where it was installed behind cedar siding as the homes are rotting due to being "too tight" We only use it behind vinyl now. We are also finding many homes completely rotted from ground to ceiling that used EIFS siding. The studs are actually disintegrated and only the paint and drywall are holding everything together. We just rebuilt a 5 million dollar ocean front house that was completely gone that was only 6 years old.

[/ QUOTE ]

Interesting...I've built a dozen homes on the Kenai Peninsula [along the shoreline of the Kenai River and Cook Inlet, AK] and we've NEVER had mold/rot issues behind the exterior siding. Average fare for the day up there is blowing rain or snow, and EVERY home is wrapped in Tyvek for the last 6-8 years that I'm aware of. Bluwood is probably the newest innovation in anti-mold wood treatment and we've had tremendous success with it in places like Hawaii and the Pacific Rim areas.

SS