![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Today's Posts | Search |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The biggest thing that I can see is the 60' time. Your pulling mph enough to be into the 12's (or damn close). Look at how quick your advance is coming in. I am in a heavy car with a lot of torque and I have my advance coming in full at about 2500 rpm. Since you are running a stick, my advice of loading up the chassis with the convertor won't help, but the best advice I have ever been given(on street tires) was to picture an egg under the accelerator. Press on it hard, but don't break it. Get rolling then mat the SOB. Pete, JJ, and Rob would all be good people to give proper acceleration demonstrations!
![]()
__________________
Snarl softly and carry a big stick! 1969 Hurst/Olds 13.26 @ 103.12 Pure Stock Rusty Small |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Darren: that thing looks a *tad* slow at the 1/8 mile mark...your mph at that point is a little short, but you need to be looking for mid-high 8's by that point, as by then that BBC should have a head of steam behind it. I'm wondering if Rusty isn't onto something and your distributor needs a recurve, 'cause it's not looking *too* shabby at the stripe? Put a timing light on it and see at what RPM all your timing comes in by...you have headers on that thing?
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Yes Rob, headers... I didn't monkey with the timing at all and just ran it as it was. I pretty sure I need a lash adjustment as well..
__________________
1969 Z28 1972 Corvette |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Put Slicks on it, get a line lock so that you can properly warm them up. Wind it up to just under the max torque and dump the clutch and be ready to do some quick shifting.
My best 60 foot at the SR was a traction limited 1.77. I am going to put a line lock on so that I can properly heat my tires. The L88 cam provides little vacuum to the brake booster and I can't hold the tires long enough to get them real sticky. Letting off the gas and granny shifting can also cost you some time once the car has been launched, no matter the set up. Practice until you will find out where the traction/hp limitation of the suspension and tires is. Your engine set up is very similar to my COPO/427. I also have a DZ carb, headers, L88 spec cam. You are talking two complete different set ups from what the pure stock guys are doing and the modified old school Super Stocker style set up. |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
[ QUOTE ]
... Letting off the gas and granny shifting can also cost you some time once the car has been launched, no matter the set up.... [/ QUOTE ] True. I'm a 'granny shifter' and probably lose a tenth+ because of it, but this way when I miss a shift I don't see the rpm's go past 9grand. Gotta save my 'born with' stuff! ![]()
__________________
Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
[ QUOTE ]
You are talking two complete different set ups from what the pure stock guys are doing and the modified old school Super Stocker style set up. [/ QUOTE ] I'll agree with that *to a point*...throwing slicks at that car is just gonna be a band-aid, as those MPH's tell me something else is askew. You have to crawl before you walk, and you either work on the tune now or it's gonna come back and haunt you later. Granted, D's car has some luxuries us Pure Stock guys aren't allowed (tires, headers, traction bars) so we *have* to sweat the small stuff...but most folks would be surprised how important that little stuff is. In fact, Pete & JJ helped Peter Klute knock a second off the ET of a COPO Camaro in about 15 minutes time... |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
[ QUOTE ]
In fact, Pete & JJ helped Peter Klute knock a second off the ET of a COPO Camaro in about 15 minutes time... [/ QUOTE ] I recorded and watched that episode very carefully.. ![]() I don't think I have a problem with shifting. I had more confidence knowing I had the limiter in there just in case....
__________________
1969 Z28 1972 Corvette |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Darren,
Sorry I didn`t see this sooner...(I did see your opening statement). Well the only answer I have is...buy the Duster and I`ll stop busting your b#$%s. This way as long as you don`t fall asleep at the light...you`ll have a fast car. ![]() Dan.
__________________
69 300 Deluxe Post Sedan Frost Green 69 SS396 300 Deluxe Post Sedan Lemans Blue SOLD 70 Buick Skylark Post Sedan Gulfstream Blue 70 Buick Skylark Post Sedan Burnished Saddle http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PM3DE8qI2NY https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Yn4xEmGypUw |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I'll never hear the end of that...
__________________
1969 Z28 1972 Corvette |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Darren;
There is some great information in this rather lengthy thread which was started several years ago. The key to a low e.t is generating the quickest short times (60', 330', 660') you can. Lots of people think they can sacrifice a good launch in the hopes of "making up" what they lost on the line on the second half of the track. Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way. As has already been mentioned, you can "roughly" expect to pick up 1.5X in e.t what you pick up in 60' time; i.e. if you pick up .1 in 60', you can expect roughly .15 at the stripe. You've already got decent mph for the e.t. you have, so the power is basically there. Now you just have to make the car (and the driver) work as efficiently as possible to use it. Remember: There's often a lot more e.t. hiding in the car itself than there is under the hood. ![]() Eric ![]() |
![]() |
|
|