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#1
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Thanks for the advise guys, this is in line with what i was thinking.....did not think about the heater core issue. Bobby, i like the distributor idea....
Indy, why do you think the alt may need replaced??
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Eddie M Camaro-less 87 El Camino SS Few Ferrari's |
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#2
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I have always had good luck with pulling the plugs and squirting a few shots of Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders, wait a few days or more then spin it over with no plugs then fire it up. Marvel works wonders with stuck valves and rings... if it seems like you have either stuck rings or stuck valves after firing it up...
with the car running and Aircleaner off rev the engine and pour marvel mystery oil into the carb... we have used this method to unstick rings and valves in engines that have not been started in over 40 years.
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
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#3
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Thanks for the tips on Marvel oil,,,,,were do you buy this,,local parts store?
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Eddie M Camaro-less 87 El Camino SS Few Ferrari's |
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#4
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Ed,
They should have it at any parts store...Pep Boys, etc.
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Bruce Choose Life-Donate! |
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#5
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The priming of the oil before start up is most important. . At the very least, disable the ignition and run it up w/ the starter motor. .
Back in the boneyard days I used to flash up a lot of motors that had been sitting for years. . I used a drill and the shaft I cut off an old distributor....it worked a lot better than bouncing a cut off screwdriver or whatever else around down in the oil pump drive. . Buicks and other motors w/ a front distrib/oil pump and rear pan pickup were the worst. . With such a long way for the oil to travel, if you didn't prime them first you'd often get a knock....always not forgetting to check for cracked flexplates on the Buicks of course. . Make sure you confirm distrib/pump rotation and wind down the drill speed before priming. . ![]() ~ Pete
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I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! |
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#6
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Pete... we have the same "priming system" ... I should probably check the ID band on that ole cast iron distributor... might be something special.
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__________________
~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
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#7
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Good idea on the priming the pump...ill get some mystery oil and a dist shaft and follow the advise. I was going to drop the tank and drain it, but for the money of new tank, may just install a new one and pickup and make the job quick and easy. Im a little worried about the rad and heater core . . if was properly filled with coolent when it was put away, but do you think sitting has caused more corrosion or damage?
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Eddie M Camaro-less 87 El Camino SS Few Ferrari's |
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