Motor oil info

**njsteve** · #1 02-27-2006, 05:04 AM

Looks like the Valvoline Race has the most Zinc at .20. Any info on Penzoil Race Oil?

Belair62 · #2 02-27-2006, 05:54 AM

Thats all I have...thankfully I have Valvoline race in my fresh engine...roller cams don't have any problem on break in which is when the zinc becomes critical...its flat tappet that you really have to make sure you have plenty of manufacturer break in additive or they will be gone in minutes I hear...or just go with a roller. Long term I think we need to find an additive.

Chevy454 · #3 02-27-2006, 06:18 AM

On BBC's w/flat tappets, it's *imperitive* to only break them in on the outer springs, or a set of actual break in springs...

**WILMASBOYL78** · #4 02-27-2006, 06:48 AM

[ QUOTE ]
On BBC's w/flat tappets, it's *imperitive* to only break them in on the outer springs, or a set of actual break in springs...

[/ QUOTE ]

I've heard of this before..is it really that "imperative" ??

wilma

Belair62 · #5 02-27-2006, 07:01 AM

Good practice...few people do it...you roll the dice on full spring pressure.

**JRSully** · #6 02-27-2006, 03:15 PM

The guy who is breaking in my new, stock L78 motor said "YOU MUST" use only the outer spring for break in and insists on the 25w-50 Pennzoil race oil because it has a lot of zinc in it, he was up on this a long time ago, told me about the additives being left out of most oils these days except the race oils. He also went on to say that the factory break in GM product EOS, doesn't have the additives it used to. Just one man's opinion, but 30 years experience... SULLY

NCGuy68 · #7 02-28-2006, 04:50 AM

Here in NASCAR country, many top notch engine builders assemble the motors in race or street condition and run them as is. No break-in required. They Highly recommend a true, 100% synthetic oil such as Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc, along with a high quality filter.

Its easy to make horsepower - can you make it last for 500 miles?

Seattle Sam · #8 04-02-2006, 10:30 AM

The Pennzoil 25-50 GT has NO zinc listed on its data sheet, and claims to be compliant with the current API SJ standards.

**Salvatore** · #9 02-28-2006, 05:58 AM

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
On BBC's w/flat tappets, it's *imperitive* to only break them in on the outer springs, or a set of actual break in springs...

[/ QUOTE ]

I've heard of this before..is it really that "imperative" ??

wilma

[/ QUOTE ]Absolutely!

VintageMusclecar · #10 02-28-2006, 11:56 AM

(yes, I'm posting this at 3:45 a.m. ain't insomnia a wonderful thing?

)

For those of you who aren't familiar with this site...

Everything you ever wanted to know about oil but were afraid to ask

Rob is correct about BBC's (and just about any other engine for that matter) and break-in with flat tappet cams. It's a little more work to re-install the inner springs once break in is complete, but it beats the h*ll outta pulling the engine back down because of a wiped cam. You'd be suprised how much damage that material does to bearings, cranks, piston skirts and cylinder walls.

(Of course, if you have an extra $700+ burning a hole in your pocket, Schubeck lifters are an option. Just drop these in and go racing, no break-in needed.)

Oh, fwiw...

There's some worthwhile power to be had with synthetic oil. How much? Depends on the oil.

Food for thought: I personally know of one big block Chrysler bracket engine that was switched from 50-weight racing oil to a fairly thin name-brand synthetic.

After the engine had fully warmed up with the synthetic oil in it, the owner found the idle speed had increased by roughly 300 rpm.

"Things that make you go hmmmmm"

Eric

Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars.