Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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Oh, I thought those were a set of Swedish wooden ladder bars.
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__________________
Joe Barr |
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#2
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It appears that the back 2 frame to body bolts are either not there, or have pulled through the floor. The front bolts appear to be there in some form. Maybe. You can most likley save it, but it's gonna be expensive, and very time consuming as I'm sure there are multiple issues that we can't see.
You may want to consider another project that is less material, or labor intensive. If not, good luck, and get friendly with your good mark dealer. If you need a full floor, the dii's fit well. |
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#3
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Mark, you are right about me making a decision here. If I keep it I will make it look original, so I want good quality. And I also saw it as a good testvehicle (not so good anymore
) before starting on my COPO. Therefore I want to use the same sheetmetal on this car as on the COPO. I might have to change my mind on this though.I might add that the frontend problem looks worse than it is. The subframe just wasn´t bolted to the unibody correctly. The problem is the floor and rear part of the body. Before they started working on it, I don´t think it was much worse than COPO-Pete´s white racer before it was restored. Schonye, like you said, there are multiple issues to consider. If I could find a car here in Sweden that I could cut the back-half off, it would save me some time. But I don´t think there is such a donor-car around. What is dii´s web address by the way ?
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Anders Stålklint. After selling my COPO 9561 I´m now a "postman" with the main project being a 1966 327 2 dr sedan Chevy II.
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#4
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Hi Anders
Glad to se you got a new project. I got a good tips for you. What I heard is that Year one have the right thicknes of the steel. They tested it on there new mailboxCamaro. There is a guy here in sweden that inport parts regulary from them. around 50000$ a year. He lives in skellefteå. I contact you for more info. good luck with the car. Merry cristmas Magnus on Öland |
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#5
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I tend to agree with Schonye. I would find a better project (a muscle car) and ship it back or use for parts. A lot of time and money for a 307 2 barrel car. Have to ask yourself if when done, will this car satisfy the needs and pleasures I want it to. JMO Sam
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#6
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That certainly looks like a "funny car"...a Frost Green Camaro funny car!
Hopefully,it looks worse than it really is...
__________________
1967 Buick Skylark GS400 Funny Car "Ingenue"...World's only Buick-powered Buick Funny Car/Aug '10 HRM featured car '69 Z/28 Yellow/Aug '07 CHP cover car '70 Z/28 R/S Orange/Jan '08 CHP featured car '70 Chevelle SS454 LS-5 Red/Jan '11 CHP cover car |
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#7
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Sam, a 1969 Camaro in good shape is pretty valuable over here, regardless of what engine it came with from the factory. It would cost me more than 2000$ to ship it back to the US, so I think it is better to have the car done over here. It´s also an opportunity to learn about the quality of available restoration parts. After having rebuilt the rearhalf of the car, I could sell it to someone who would do the restoration himself. That way I wouldn´t lose any money, and I would learn more about the parts.
So, considering the fact that it is probably a 307 car, what parts would you buy to get the best quality/Dollar ?
__________________
Anders Stålklint. After selling my COPO 9561 I´m now a "postman" with the main project being a 1966 327 2 dr sedan Chevy II.
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#8
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Anders, I would start with buying some very good used parts. I like good used. I think good used sheetmetal always seems to fit better than anything out there. Plus it is original. There are many good parts out there to bead blast or repaint yourself. When that doesn't work anymore I would, and I HATE to say it buy the Taiwan sheetmetal. (Goodmark) There are some better quality resto parts you can buy out there lately. Just keep looking. NOS and Jimmy Stubbing parts I would save for a better car. They are more expensive but....good quality. If you do not want to get parts reanodized or recolored buy some quality paints from Eastwood or Ricks First Generation for your colored and anonidized and dichromate parts. For an average driver to learn on I think you will be ok with these products. Everybody has to learn some where and this is as good as any. I would buy Jerry MacNeishs book. Get a Ricks First Generation catalog and have Bob Harris at Camaro Specialities send you his catalog. Your most valuable info will NO doubt come from this site and its people. Just look what Darren did (Darren X33)!! Don't hesitate to ask. That is how we ALL learn! Sam
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