Driveability of high compression cars

[Salvatore]

Farm and home right up the road from me. They carry VP. 5.00 a gallon. Alot of the S/G guys use it.

[@wot]

I buy Torco race fuel (110 octane) in 55 gal. drums from a supplier in town. You can do a dealer search on various fuel sites to find someone near you. Best bet is ask around at local cruises, shoews etc. You're bound tyo find people buying race fuel. Try mixing in different ratios until you have eliminated detonation.

[Keith Tedford]

Since 1997 we've put about 28K miles on our L78 Chevelle. It works fine on 91-93 octane gas. You have to get the advance curve set up right with no more than 34 degrees total. We have a 10.25-1 455 in our '72 Lemans Sport and it works fine too on the same gas. Running slightly rich helps as does a colder thermostat. Block off the heat cross over in the intake as well. It's the little stuff that makes things work. Stock engines can be as much as a point blow what is advertised. If you have a blueprinted engine that is a true 11-1, things could be a little more difficult.

[Salvatore]

Just buy the additive. It works good! If you got that much detontation something else may be wrong.

[Johnny Horsepower]

In a pinch and only in a pinch I use store bought (black bottle 104) with a real lead additive. I have been told that Marvels mystery oil is good for keeping your valves happy but have not tried yet (anybody have?). But for more GPM (grins per mile) I run a blend of 93 and 110 race fuel. My GTO club has a fuel finder on its site. I personally go to the track and buy cans of it. There is no need to run strait 110, its a whaste. you want to run enough to stop pre-ignition.
I usually run 4 to 1 (93 to 110) and it runs and smells like a champ. Unless you are driving this car all the time, there is no need for a big 55 gal drum. Ten gallons on hand, will give you 50 gallons of useable fuel.