Detail Paints

[DarrenX33]

I plan on using Krylon 1613 on my engine detail as well.

[firstgenaddict]

On anything that is supposed to be natural iron the best thing to do is clean off the paint and rust and then coat it with Boeshield, when you start painting parts that are supposed to be natural they look good in the beginning but later on they just don't look right I have done it both ways and trust me if you paint it in 6 months you will wish that you didn't.

[JoeG]

--Back when,-- I used Jay Nixon Details Paint and he also used the Krylon ---excellent----Did Jay Nixon start a line of paints with Krylon --??

[RichSchmidt]

POR 15 makes a product called Matal Mask,and it is similar in strength to their black product,but it is considered a top coat and isnt as UV sensitive as the black paint.I used it on the brake backing plates on my race car at they looked great,it looks like a galvinized finish and has no glass at all.They dont tell you that you can mix products,but I mixed some flat black POR15 topcoat into the Metal Mask and it toned it down a bit and it really looked like cast iron on the calipers and rotors.If the parts are sand blasted and cleanrd with their metal wash,and allowed to sure about a week before you put a wrench to them,the stuff is indestructable,and it wont disappoint you later on.It is a great way to go if you are doing a restoration and have the time to work with the products,It isnt a good way to go if you are trying to dollup parts on a Saturday afternoon while swapping them out.Good luck.

[Alan X77 Hugger]

I used the Jerry MacNeish book as a first point of reference for most all the colors and % of gloss references when doing my 69Z and it turned out very good. I also recommend the Krylon 1613 for most of the internal engine bay large parts (Inner Fender Wells, Core Support etc...) The only problem I experienced with the Krylon, is that it chips very easily and is not super durable. As far as the natural finish depending on the part, I have also heard of Boeshield working well. I used Seymour Castblast on certain parts like the Steering Box and some linkage parts.

[Mr. T]

Happy Birthday Alan!

[Belair62]

Alan...your cake is on fire !

[RichSchmidt]

I was wondering if anybody has any good methods for repoducing the red/brown underbody primer used on GM cars in the early 70's.I want something that will hold up to abuse of normal useage,and even racing,but look original.I was thinking of mixing some POR15 topcoats until I matched what is on my car now{it has most of the original primer but is loosing it fast}.The car is about 50% complete,so going back in for a sandblast isnt an option.I know most guys around here dont think about building stuff to "abuse" it,but I am restoring a race car and want the finished product to look like an early 70's era pro stocker built off of a new production car.I then plan on running the stink out of it every weekend in the 10.90 and electronics bracket classes,so durabilty is key.Thanks in advance.

[CamarosRus]

I believe MOST 1970(+) Norwood,OH Camaro restorer's use PPG DP-50 Primer to recreate the underbody look. I my would ask if a Flattened Clear could then be applied over the DP as a top coat to seal and make the primer more durable over time...........
Chuck S

[Yellow 69 z28]

I've used Jerry's book (Its so tatered now I think I will need to grap an other copy soon) and photo's of low mileage GM vehicles (of the same vintage of car being restored) collected over the years. But, if you want a quick reference on the WEB - check this site out.

GM Body Detailing Site (OLDSmobility)

Somebody should do something like this for our Chevy muscle.

Good Starting point.