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#1
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I tried my hand at buffing the aluminum trim and it worked out rather well. I used an old electric motor bolted to a couple of pieces of plywood. I bolted them to the work table but far enough out that I have room to work. I used the basic Eastwood kit and started with the Tripoli compound and then wiped the piece down with mineral spirits and finished it with the white rouge compound. After that I wiped it down again with mineral spirits and then hand polished it with Simichrome chrome polish. I then wiped it down again and sprayed some Boeshield metal protectant on it to keep the luster for a while.
Here is the setup: ![]() And after some initial buffing (on the left side of the piece) ![]() Here is the polished right side piece, compared to the unpolished left side: ![]() ![]() It took about 30 minutes to do the one piece with the wheel changes and cleaning between stages. So that's one down and 7 to go! |
#2
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After seeing this post, I have a good notion to try and restore the trim from around my door frames on my Nova. Would a company be able to restore them easily if I had stripped off all of the old anodizing?
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Jed 69,70,71 Nova's 1955 Bel Air and a 69 Camaro. |
#3
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Steve,
Do you have any plans for a protective treatment of some sort after the aluminum moldings are polished up? Bare polished aluminum will require frequent upkeep, just like aluminum wheels. Verne |
#4
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That Simichrome is really good stuff.
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#5
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[ QUOTE ]
Steve, Do you have any plans for a protective treatment of some sort after the aluminum moldings are polished up? Bare polished aluminum will require frequent upkeep, just like aluminum wheels. Verne [/ QUOTE ] From what I have read, that Boeshield stuff soaks into the metal and keeps it nice, shiny and protected for about 6 months. If it tarnishes after about 6 months, you can then wipe it down with some mineral spirits and give a quick polishing with the Simichrome and recoat it with the Boeshield again. |
#6
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Here's a link to the Boeshield website. Sears sells it as do a lot of boat dealers. It runs about $14 a spray can.
http://www.boeshield.com/ |
#7
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Started to work on stripping the rear spoilers today and noticed a couple things.
1) The original rear spoiler decal section wraps under the center section of the spoiler by about a 1/2 inch. It is also a much different blue color than the later (what I assume is a) GM replacement decal that was on the car. Note the color differences. The original decal remnants are more of a turquoise color with much smaller and finer black dot-matrix pattern that the replacement decal that is on the topside. The original spoiler decal was 18-1/16" wide, from outer pinstripe edge to edge and was also more accurately positioned: 12-14/16" from the passenger end and 12-13/16" from the driver's end. The replacement decal was 18" wide and about a 4/16" to the right side of the car. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() And here was where it aligned up with the original trunk lid: ![]() |
#8
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The second thing I noticed was that I have two different spoiler end caps on my car: a long end cap and a short end cap. The shorty with the white underside is the original 70-73 endcap (PN 480159) and the black undersided, longer tipped, end cap is a replacement from a 74 to 78 T/A (PN 493688). At least it's easier to trim the longer one to match the shorter one. Thankfully that's a lot simpler than trying to make the shorter one grow to match the later longer, end cap.
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#9
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So Steve... the current replacement decals... are they correct? Or if not what are you planning on doing? Do you have NOS ones?
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
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