72 TA : New Project

[njsteve]

That's scary when someone wonders "What would NJSteve do?" Maybe I should get my own sign now?

I would probably figure out some way to dissolve the foam gasket into something 1/100th its size and then inject it into the area using a single tube Dunkin Donuts coffee stirrer (never use Starbucks, you risk a bad chemical reaction). Once installed I would then inject it with the replenisher agent to enlarge it back to its original size. Barring that ...I would take it apart again and put that stupid foam o-ring back on (BTW I have done that a couple time myself on A/C-equipped cars).

Good Luck with your project. I am happy to have the chance to entertain and enlighten.


BTW Part II: You don't really need that foam o-ring thingy that much. You could buy some 3M strip caulk and just feed a bunch of it into the gap around the heater core tube until you have sufficient amount on both sides to fill the space. The purpose of the foam is to keep out engine smells and moisture, and to keep the tube from rubbing against the metal of the firewall. You may want to try this instead of yanking the heater box out again and risking damaging the new heater core (been there, done that, too).

[Dave Rifkin]

Where I made the mistake was not the foam insulation around the heater core tubes; I actually got that right. Where I messed up was, there's a foam gasket that is supposed to go around the opening in the firewall ,from the inside, before the heater box is installed. That's how I installed this foam seal, only to find out after everything was all nicely routed and buttoned up, that there were instructions on the flip side of the paper I had been looking at.
Like a dope, I never realized that there were instructions with my heater core seal kit and just reviewed the pictures. It looked like the foam seal went on the firewall (engine side) before the blower motor assembly was installed.
I don't know how much of a big deal that is, I just figured you guys would probably take it apart and do it the right way.

[njsteve]

And here is the final pair all finished and awaiting the nose assembly to put it in.

[njsteve]

ENOCH sent me a couple more photos today of the block sanding progress. He has both doors done, (including the NOS skin on the driver's door), the hood and the trunklid. These were a couple of the in-process shots. More to come...

[njsteve]

I was doing some more finagling around with the car today, cleaning up the headlight buckets. While I was waiting for them to dry off I unbolted the trunk latch. I took some photos for documentation purposes. As you can see the trunk latch was installed when the car went into the giant primer dunk tank back at the Norwood plant in December 1972. You can see the red primer covered with traces of the exterior white overspray as well as the black and turquoise trunk spatter paint over that. It's interesting to see that the undersides of the mounting bolts have the primer on them as well. That e-coating did its job: it got everywhere.

[njsteve]

I went to Carlisle a week or so ago and picked up a new gas tank for the car. I have been holding off on ordering one since I didnt feel like paying $50+ in shipping for a $150 part. I bought the tank there and carted it home. My original tank has two large screw holes in the top where someone in the past had drilled through the trunk floor to mount something and went right through the tank. Ouch! Yeah, I could have repaired it and kept it but when it comes to safety items like brakes, brake hoses, fuel lines and gas tanks, I dont play around with my life. Replace them, save the originals for posterity and don't ever worry again.

My original tank still had the factory silkscreened stencil barely visible on the bottom with the 12-20-71 date code on it. I have been scratching my head on how to reproduce it when I stumbled across the website www.inlinetube.com and found that they reproduce the stencil! (go to their website and look under "gas tanks" and you will find it). I had to do some modifications to get my exact date code but in the end it reproduced it exactly.

Here's the original tank with the ghost image of the factory US Steel Stamp still visible (barely):

[njsteve]

The stencil is more like a decal with cutouts in it. You clean the tank with lacquer thinner and carefully peel the front off of the decal and place it one the tank. Then use a squeegy and make sure it is firmly attached. You then carefully peel the backing off making sure all the centers of the letters stay on the tank.