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#1
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I left the spindles exactly as I found them. I cleaned them and then sprayed a wax preservative on them to delay any rusting. The rotor dust shields were power washed, which returned them nicely to their original galvanized condition.
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#2
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The car still had its original rotors at 114,000 miles, which were cleaned and resurfaced. I then redid the paint marks exactly as they were found. The pink paint was on the area where the maximum thickness measurement is cast into the hub: ".985"
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#3
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Here's the rolling frame as it sits now. Next comes the steering linkage, next week. All the tie rod ends and drag link joints feel nice and tight. I'm just going to clean them up and reinstall them.
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#4
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The other side.
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#5
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Rear view.
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#6
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WOW!
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Follow me on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mbcgarage/ |
#7
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How much for the Abdominizer 5000?
Great Pix Steve. |
#8
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You are pretty good at this, Want to do a Z/28
![]() Was watching the Guys from Classic (Legendary?)showing how to dip certain parts in paint, Pretty cool ![]()
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SamLBInj 69 Z/28 X33D80 72-B H-D 105 FLSTC |
#9
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[ QUOTE ]
You are pretty good at this, Want to do a Z/28 ![]() Was watching the Guys from Classic (Legendary?)showing how to dip certain parts in paint, Pretty cool ![]() [/ QUOTE ] I'm trying to do all of the cheap labor-intensive stuff on my own (read that as when you got no money to spend, use your own labor). I already have the drivetrain finished. Next comes the rear differential and springs. The major expense will be the body shell, which hopefully wont be that bad as it only needs the center section of the trunk floor replaced and one very small rust spot in the pass quarter, plus the usual 35 years of dents. |
#10
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Steve, just found this novel
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69 SS 350 convertible (in peices) 69 327 convertible (driver) |
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