![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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For winter storage I always top the gas tank off with Cam II. Racing fuel is more stable and does not gum up the carb and lines like pump gas. Give it a good coat of wax and drive my cars on top of one of those car jackets, disconnect and remove the battery, put the car cover on, and zip up the car jacket, keeps all condensate and moisture out. Put the battery on a battery tender and wait for spring. Before I fire it up in the spring I change the oil and filter, hook up the battery, then I remove the distributor and use a drill to prime the engine just to get oil through out the entire engine. With coil wire removed I crank it over just to get the fuel pump primed, put some fuel in the carb and reconnect the coil wire. Priming the engine with drill may be overkill but it gives me piece of mind. We all do pretty much the same thing to our cars just different variations.
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<span style="color: blue">1970 GTO Judge Ram Air IV, 4 speed</span> |
#2
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I like to add fuel stabilizer and fill the tank full of fresh Petro. Both pump and race gas will go "sour" within a few months. Its a particular problem with late model cars that have 'in tank' fuel pumps.
The carburetor cars like the same treatment.
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Craig S. "I saw Elvis At 1000 Feet" John Force. |
#3
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Not that I have a car like this, but...
What do you do with a show car that only gets driven on and off the trailer? Do you empty the tank every year? Use fuel stabilizer? How do you keep the carb from getting gummed up with varnish? just wondering... ![]() -Sam
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#4
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Sam,
See my reply above...... Any fuel will begin to turn to varnish in short order. I've dealt with gummed-up carbs, fuel tanks and pumps. Its' nothing but a hassle and one you don't need. Do yourself a favor and add a fuel stabilizer. I like Sta-Bil.
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Craig S. "I saw Elvis At 1000 Feet" John Force. |
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