Hesitating Holley

[Chevy454]

Ok, I will snap a picture of an OEM vent baffle! What advantage does the aftermarket have over the OEM Pete? I would have assumed the factory piece worked.

As for 99Z1LE...let's just say "he's not well"[img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img]!

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Thanks for the tip, I will give that a try as well. I don't know which squirter Dotterer put into it. I was hoping to get rid of the stumble without taking it out, since I didn't have another one to try yet, and I was concerned about dropping something down the carb. I will have to stuff some rags, and take it out to see the number.

The first step is to richen up the primaries since I put 68's in there trying to keep the plugs from fowling. I think I fixed the plug problem by adjusting the mixture screws based on the vacuum reading.

Exactly how do you set the accelerator pump adjustment?

I have no problem taking it out and running the 'feces' out of it for 60+ feet! The only thing better than that is kicking some Rice Derier'.
[img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

[COPO PETE]

Marlin....You better have a look at squirter size right away. Very important part of your stumble. Use some needle nose vise grips to grab that little devil!
Peter [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img]

[bbdon]

I know that there is somtimes some confusion about the pump clearance setting. You need to set the accelerator pump lever to .015 clearance at wide open throttle. To do that you need to use something to push the accelerator pump lever down all the way while also opening the throttle all of the way. Then you use a feeler gauge to check the clearance with your third hand. The idea is that you don't want the the accelerator pump to bottom out at full throttle, which will harm it. Some people read the spec and set some clearance between the cam and lever at idle. You don't want to do that because the accelerator pump will not work soon enough, there should be no clearance at idle. This has probably already been set up for you, but I thought that I'd mention it.

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Hey bbdon;
Thanks for the info, if it was set up for me - I have changed it several times already!! None of the other adjustments seemed to set up, so I just figured the acc. pump wasn't either. I will find my third hand and check it out, after I change the jets, examine the squirter, and ....
[img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/confused.gif[/img]

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

Had a little bit of time now that the NNN show is over to tinker with the Holley. Schoneye and COPO PETE were both helpful. I put the white pump cam in, made sure I had the '31' squirter, changed the secondary spring, rejet the primary's, and most importantly, rerouted the vacuum lines from the carb/dist. advance. That stupid TCS stuff was messing up the advance.

The hesitation is practically gone, but it still lacks the super strong midrange power it had before. So, the only thing I had before that I didn't re-install is the blocked power valve on the secondary side with '82' jets. They are on order, so I will install and retest, will let you know [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Thanks for the tips!

[YENKO DEUCE REGISTRY]

It's taken me a while to get things changed around on my carb! But, it's off the car and I'm changing the jets etc... Pete, or others, do you use a blocked power valve in the secondary side? What is the advantage, if any, of doing so?

[John Brown]

Marlin, if you block the rear power valve you must increase the rear jet size 6 to 8 jet sizes to compensate. The power valves job is to keep mixture lean while crusing and richen when accelerating. However since the rear barrels are either fully closed or fully open on the dragstrip, there is no need for a variable air/fuel mixture. The advantages to blocking the power valve are that the power valve now can't stick closed and cause a lean condition, and won't blow out and leak if you should have an intake manifold backfire.
You gonna go to Norwalk? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/[/img]