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#101
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Wee update: I went back into the shop and tried to mock up the end play on the cross shaft gear with a couple of AN washers. The hardened washer that was in the distributor is 0.028-inch thick. The AN washers measure 0.63-inch thick (each). Using one of the AN washers alone helped. Using two AN washers didn’t work. Using one AN washer and the original hardened washer together more or less worked. I’m not leaving the AN washer in there, but I’m sure someone was inside this distributor before me (no surprise I’m sure…). So…is it possible the thrust washer is too thin? Sure seems so. I’ll find out tomorrow.
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#102
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I just spoke with Jeff Vinyard, owner of High Tech Innovations. He machines new couplers and gears for Corvette distributors. He also has an upgraded setup with captured needle bearings and a stainless steel coupler (picture below). He agrees and thinks the thrust washer in my distributor is wrong. I have one of his setups on the way...
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| The Following 10 Users Say Thank You to Arrowsmith For This Useful Post: | ||
69M22Z (03-31-2026), cheveslakr (03-30-2026), dykstra (03-31-2026), L78_Nova (03-30-2026), napa68 (03-30-2026), olredalert (03-30-2026), RPO LS7 (03-30-2026), RPOLS3 (03-30-2026), Tenney (03-31-2026), Xplantdad (03-30-2026) | ||
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#103
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I don’t have anything earth shattering for progresss. I’m just plunking away at some of the little things….stuff I’m not crazy about doing…L-O-L. I’m still waiting for the $$$ Al Knoch order. Man, they’re slow….
First things first: I finally refinished the center stack gauge bezel. I think it came out pretty good: ![]() Here it is assembled with the gauges and center stack warning lamps. I don’t have the clock knob installed. Reason? Somehow, I lost the fancy little specialized nut that goes inside the knob. I’ll have to order a new one: ![]() I stripped the wiper bezel today and I’ll repaint it and detail the raised chrome letters later this week: ![]() When I took the car apart, I found it had a new tach cable. In fact, it had an odd mix of new and old parts in it. If you recall, I had to fix the tach needle. Seller told me it fell off. I think I discovered the real problem: The cross drive washer mentioned earlier is wrong and the tach cable has never seen lube. ![]() Bone dry: ![]() Here’s a very recent picture of the car. I still think I will sell it once the interior and a few other odds and ends are done. It will make a Great (small) project for someone. I’ve done all of the heavy lifting….L-O-L:
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| The Following 9 Users Say Thank You to Arrowsmith For This Useful Post: | ||
69M22Z (Today), dykstra (04-08-2026), olredalert (04-07-2026), PeteLeathersac (04-07-2026), RPO LS7 (04-06-2026), RPOLS3 (04-07-2026), Tenney (04-07-2026), Too Many Projects (04-06-2026), Woodrock (04-07-2026) | ||
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#104
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Corvette Baby Steps…
My interior parts order should ship from Al Knoch on Monday. So I should see them in a week or ten days. Meanwhile, I finished some of the odd jobs. And I’m officially out of those odd jobs, so I’ll just to wait to get back on the Corvette. Here’s a look at those tasks: I painted and detailed the wiper bezel: ![]() Here it is installed in the center gauge stack (cluster). I think it turned out pretty good. I’m positive others here can do finer work than me, but this is the best I can do. I discovered part of my problem (having to paint, strip, paint, strip over and over again) is not using an adhesion promoter. More on that down the page. ![]() In case anyone is interested, these are the two products I used for the cluster re-restore. Even though I’m in Canada, I’m thinking you should be able to get these easily in America. For Canucks, the only place I could find the right black was through Grainger. Note the “Industrial” label. Hang on to your wallet…L-O-L. Adhesion promotor is clear. It’s easy to find. Even Canadian Tire had two or three dozen rattle cans in stock. ![]() Paint booth…L-O-L. High Tech is Us! ![]() I lubed the speedo cable (recall, it was bone dry). Typically, I’ll lube the entire core except the last four to six inches on the gauge side so that it doesn’t make a mess while spinning the tach. Here’s the stuff I use (and I’ve used it in the past with the Jones Motorola tachs I used to run in my race cars). Works great. Now that I said that I’ll probably get a bunch of fish eyes in the next thing I have to paint. ![]() The last thing on my list was to fix the orientation of the heater hoses (clamps in relation to the hose nipples on the heater core). Aside from being correct, I think it looks cleaner than it did before. ![]() Done for now. Once the interior parts arrive, I’ll step up with another update. |
| The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to Arrowsmith For This Useful Post: | ||
cheveslakr (Yesterday), dykstra (Yesterday), L78_Nova (Today), PeteLeathersac (Yesterday), Roger M (Yesterday), RPO LS7 (Yesterday), RPOLS3 (Yesterday), Too Many Projects (Yesterday) | ||
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#105
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Syl-Glide is a great lube, but it has no place in a paint shop...
that stuff seems to migrate up walls and across the ceiling... Clean your hands with lacquer thinner.
__________________
Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 15k miles |
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#106
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Quote:
L-O-L...I'm an old drag racer ....certainly no painter...and like I mentioned above…Fish Eyes R Us ... . . W
Last edited by Arrowsmith; Today at 02:09 AM. |
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