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#1
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Beautiful job on the wiper motor. Just took a couple pics of mine, which is original to the car. Appears my non depressed park motor uses a lesser offset arm. Can't get a pic of the stamping if any is there, but the distance between pivots, center to center is roughly 2 inches.
Last edited by cheveslakr; 01-13-2025 at 04:16 PM. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to cheveslakr For This Useful Post: | ||
OneStopRestoration (01-14-2025), ragtop (01-13-2025) |
#2
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#3
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#4
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Thankyou. I did find my original arm in the plating table. After more research its not the same arm as used with the more common hidden wiper units. Im sure there are other models of cars and years with the same arm but I cant say which. Another 300 deluxe oddity.
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The Following User Says Thank You to OneStopRestoration For This Useful Post: | ||
ScottG (02-10-2025) |
#5
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Ive been very slowly and patiently building the engine. As stated earlier original Chevelle JD stamped 4 bolt main block form a Kansas City 69 Chevelle. Kept the numbers with no decking but it did require a line bore, and .040 over as it was already rebuilt once and ran what appeared a very short time. In first is the crank checking for main clearances.
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#6
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Nothing to exotic on this build. Speed pro pistons with as large a domes as can be had. Little bit of ring filing and bearing clearance checks on the rod bearings. Cam was put in and checked. Best setup was doing straightup with the timing set. Pistons sat in a hole anywhere from .015 to .025.
Once good with the bottom including oil pump, dropped the pan and tightened everything up. |
The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to OneStopRestoration For This Useful Post: | ||
Dave Rifkin (02-27-2025), dykstra (02-26-2025), gtomike1967 (02-27-2025), L78_Nova (02-26-2025), mhurd (02-26-2025), SMS (02-28-2025) |
#7
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Heads recieved enough decking to get the huge 074 chambers down close to the original 842s. With super thin cometic gaskets and head work compression came in at 10.8 to 11.0 :1 accross the pistons.
Next part gets a bit tougher. With that much machining on the heads this sinks the bolt holes for the intake further downward in the engine. This then means the intake holes no longer line up and you cant put the bolts in. |
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#8
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I had to start this project with building a fixture plate to hold the intake on the mill. Not to terribly hard but turned out great. From there the intake can be positioned so that it can then be indicated in to cut the right amount of the material off the intake front to back and from top to bottom of the runners to fit near perfectly on the engine.
Once the mating sides of the intake are cut it re aligns the bolt holes, but now you have the issue of little to now front and back wall clearance. Once again a fixture had to made to hold the intake flat to the table for the front and rear intake walls to be fixed and re machined to match the block. |
The Following 13 Users Say Thank You to OneStopRestoration For This Useful Post: | ||
66BoxNova (02-26-2025), Crush (02-26-2025), Dave Rifkin (02-27-2025), dykstra (02-26-2025), L78_Nova (02-26-2025), mhurd (02-26-2025), olredalert (02-27-2025), ragtop (02-26-2025), RPOLS3 (03-02-2025), SMS (03-03-2025), SuperNovaSS (02-27-2025), Tenney (02-26-2025), Zman1969 (03-14-2025) |
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