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#1
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Removed the top dash panel. I don't like using spot weld drills when I want to save/use the panel below what I am removing. My preferred method is a grinding wheel. I grind around the perimeter of the spot and try to not cut into the substrate at all, or very little.
I use the grinder about the same way I mig weld, using short bursts and checking the color of the metal to "see" where the spot is and work around it until the metal is very thin and I can pop it off with a screw driver. There were about 16 spot welds and it took about 15 minutes to remove them all. Less time than using a drill and stopping to observe that progress to prevent drilling thru the substrate panel. This is what I use... That wheel was used when I started and shows almost no wear after all that After this, I used a 2" disc sander with 120 and cleaned up the spots, removing any of the top panel that was left behind. It does make a MUCH bigger mess than drilling. I use a shop vac with a HEPA bag filter inside. I can vacuum filler dust and dried overspray and it never comes out the exhaust. It does fit and line up nicely, but It would be even better if the pre-punched holes for the trim clips and glass stops lined up with the holes in the cowl panel. It may well be the cowl that is off, as 3 of the 4 holes for the cowl grill aren't accurate either. Just a little more work later to drill the holes in the correct places.
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Too Many Projects For This Useful Post: | ||
1967Z28 (03-01-2024), big gear head (03-01-2024), dustinm (02-29-2024), dykstra (02-29-2024), olredalert (03-01-2024) |
#2
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After this, I wanted to finish sanding/cleaning/prepping to paint inside the cowl before I welded the top cowl panel patch on. I grabbed my Dent Fix Eliminator, otherwise commonly known as a crud thug, attached the air hose, depressed the lever and......nothing. Just air coming out the exhaust. Thing worked just fine a month ago and now nothing. I couldn't turn the wire wheel by hand, so knew something was seized up....dang. Long story, short, it took 45 minutes just to get the danged spring pin out of the handle to take this apart. I REALLY need to get a better set of small punches and I'll leave that part of the story alone. Anyway, I had an exploded view page in the kit and used that to figure out how to take it apart. It must have had moisture in it from the last time I used it and the vanes on the rotor stuck to the cylinder. I was able to work it enough to free it up and get it working again. That whole process consumed the last 1.5 hours of my time for this project last evening. Today, I used it and got everything cleaned up, papered and sprayed with SPI epoxy primer/sealer. Tomorrow will get Limco single stage color and then the cowl top will get welded on. Are all y'all bored to tears yet...
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Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
#3
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Went back out at 7 and shot the color on. There's a LOT more paint in that cowl than GM ever got, but they didn't have the cowl top off for access either.
I can start the final fitting and welding in of the cowl section right away tomorrow.
__________________
Mitch 1970 Chevelle SS 1966 Chevelle SS 1967 Camaro ss/rs 1938 Business coupe, street rod 2000 FXSTS, original owner, 13k miles |
The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to Too Many Projects For This Useful Post: | ||
1967Z28 (03-01-2024), big gear head (03-01-2024), Chuck_Burg (03-01-2024), Donnie (03-01-2024), dustinm (03-01-2024), markinnaples (03-06-2024), napa68 (03-01-2024), olredalert (03-01-2024) |
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