Muncie issue

[Andy]

Originally Posted by big gear head

I would recommend checking your drive shaft angles when you are finished with the transmission installation. That transmission mount is thicker than a stock mount and can cause problems with the drive shaft angle. You might have to adjust the pinion angle to compensate.

Thanks for the suggestion. However, I've been running this mount for about 15 years or so now and I have no vibration issues. I checked the pinion angle when I first converted the car to a four speed and had to use some shims from competition engineering to get the angle correct.

[Andy]

I got the car running again last night but I haven't taken it off of the lift yet. The clutch needs adjusting some more due to the tires still wanting to turn when the pedal is still fully depressed, but I have reverse and 4 forward gears so I consider that a win! I got a inspection plate cover ordered today for the bellhousing and the correct length starter bolts should be arriving any day now. Should be ready to drive soon!

[Too Many Projects]

Actually it isn't unusual for the tires to turn in this situation. I would drop it on the floor and see if you feel/sense any drag from rpm change. That will give you a feel for if it is difficult to get in gear and where the clutch starts to engage for further adjustment.

[Big Block Bill]

Originally Posted by Too Many Projects

Actually it isn't unusual for the tires to turn in this situation. I would drop it on the floor and see if you feel/sense any drag from rpm change. That will give you a feel for if it is difficult to get in gear and where the clutch starts to engage for further adjustment.

X-2 Give it an 1" of free play and if everything is good, you should be good to go. Bill

[Andy]

Originally Posted by Big Block Bill

X-2 Give it an 1" of free play and if everything is good, you should be good to go. Bill

Good deal, thanks for the input gentlemen. I've learned a lot through this project!

[Andy]

I'm tackling the starter bolt situation now and I've read that the GM 12338064/Dorman 678-107 bolt is the solution for "mini" starters since the bolt has a 10mm shank and knurl for the starter, and a smaller 3/8" knurl for the block so that it locates correctly. I will say that the knurling on the new bolt definitely provides a much tighter fit on the starter but, it appears that the bolt is sticking too far out of the starter, especially the larger knurling that engages the starter. I ran one of the bolts up by hand through the starter, into the block, and it stopped about 1/4"-5/16" before the machined face of the starter would contact the block. I do not want to damage the block by using the wrong bolt. I took some pictures of the bolt as it is installed in the starter and various other dimensions. Have any of you guys ran into this? Ideas? Should I junk this starter and get a GM type mini starter for a early 90s Corvette? It had a 153 tooth flywheel like my car does.

*under head bolt length- 4.31"
*knurl diameter on bolt for starter- .398"
*knurl diameter on bolt for block- .371"
*distance from machined face of starter to end of knurl for block engagement- .378"
*thickness of starter flange- 3.110"

[Too Many Projects]

Couple things I see, 1 is the larger diameter knurl appears to be engaging the block, is it binding and causing the bolt to stop turning. 2. The end 3 threads appear to be packing dirt/oil/crap into the hole and may be stopping the bolt from turning. I "think" the outer starter hole is machine all the way thru and could be tapped further, if the threads stop short. I would run a tap into the block and see if it will clean out junk in a couple threads and allow the bolt to go in further. I would, also, test that larger knurl to see if it is causing a bind and file it down to fit. If all that comes out good, but the bolt still stops short, you can cut 3/8" off the bolt and still have plenty of thread to hold the starter.