1971 Corvette TI ignition opinion please!!

[seventieshow]

Just to add one more opinion, I have a TI ignition on my 71 LT-1 (NOM) with the solid state board in the amplifier. Starts great cold or hot and hasn't failed in the six or seven years I've been running it.

"I can see why they probably did not remove the AMP box when they replaced the TI distributor. wow! not the easliest place to access..."

It's a little awkward but not that bad.

[DaveC68]

All great stuff! much appreciated.
Build: E19 December 70
M21
3:70
I do have a few distributors here, turns out the one I was considering for a donor is 1111926 -1969-427
Fingers crossed/ I bought a nice used 4 piece fuel line set-up at Corvettes Carlisle 25 years ago/ hopefully its correct for this car / has to be the reason I've had it this long.
thanks for the photos James, I clicked the photo link in your signature and it took me to my own photos..lol, guess I need to log out of mine. look forward to any and all input to getting mine correct under the hood.

[olredalert]

----Been thinking a bit more about your T.I. and if it was me I think I would replace the T.I. harness even though your harness is there. The harness is probably the cheapest part of the system and a new harness would give you peace of mind. Your harness has been in the car for 51 years now!.....Bill S

[DaveC68]

I dug out the fuel line I picked up years ago. thoughts?
I was (what I'd call) lucky enough to pick up this pair of valve covers on ebay last week for $80. At the time of the resoration new valve covers where purchased and installed, but with the twist oil filler. Very happy I found these.
Thanks for the suggestion on the harness Bill. If one is still present, it should be the reproduction purchased @20 years ago, which didn't spend much time in service.

[firstgenaddict]

Nice score on the valve covers... they are not the easiest pieces to locate being only a 2 year usage.
Anything you want photos of let me know... my car mostly misses points for condition NOT originality.

I painted a Warbonnet 71 LT1 roadster nearly 2 years ago which was built the same approx time frame.- early Dec

FYI I saw a rebuilt 3991399 on ebay in the last week for under $100 - typcially they run $250 - $300 rebuilt.

Plug wire stands on the intake were orginally brush painted Orange AFTER installation - chrome waterneck - no washers under the intake bolts - the bolts where there are lift brackets received a Integrated (not captured) washer head bolt -

Is your MK 9 radiator TAG still on the radiator? They are not reproduced and are VERY difficult to locate.

[LT1vette]

Hi... The valve covers are good, the fuel block good. Remember what I said, you NEED the correct distributor shaft and top cam to complete the deal.
It won't run worth s--- without that.
The wiring harness is an easy find, replace the TI guts with a new circuit board and it should haul azz

[firstgenaddict]

Aircraft type Screw clamps on the upper and lower radiator hoses are correct for 69 and newer.
The correct ones read: SURE TITE 28 -

The heater hoses did use tower clamps.
If you want those correct the 3/4 is a DMC tower clamp which is yellow zinc dichromate and the 5/8 are std zinc Whittaker tower clamp.
Also if looking for a correct appearance you can use some alcohol or goof off and remove the GM stencils from the heater hoses - there was a letter code every so many feet but no GM logo.
238 distributors with all the correct parts come up from time to time.
I have recently seen some 536 advance poles /starwheels
A NOS LT1 536 on ebay for $375
and one manufactured by EC for under $200
The difficult item will be the 272 coil. They fetch $350-500.

Try this link to the album of LT1 photos.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wMRDJgmyDyAwc9Nh8

[LT1vette]

Can't remember the #, but I'm pretty sure you are wrong on the "right" advance cam.

If you don't have the correct shaft, the right cam still doesn't give you the performance.

[DaveC68]

Originally Posted by LT1vette

Can't remember the #, but I'm pretty sure you are wrong on the "right" advance cam.

If you don't have the correct shaft, the right cam still doesn't give you the performance.

I think the correct vacuum advance is 437 15


Thoughts on this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-71-MAS...53.m1438.l2649


Another question: I have the idle stop bracket for the carb, but what solenoid does it take?


Thanks for the Photo link James...great stuff!!

[firstgenaddict]

Originally Posted by DaveC68

I think the correct vacuum advance is 437 15


Thoughts on this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-71-MAS...53.m1438.l2649


Another question: I have the idle stop bracket for the carb, but what solenoid does it take?


Thanks for the Photo link James...great stuff!!

Yes, 437-15 is the vacuum advance pod,
In reference to the 536 advance - I was referencing the mechanical advance mechanism inside the distributor.

The solenoids run $40 - $100 for a NOS one. I bought a NOS one recently for $40.
Here is one for $42.50
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BUICK-CHEVROLET-OLDSMOBILE-PONTIAC-IDLE-SOLENOID-1971-1972-1973-1114444/203181000562?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649


It plumbs between the carb vacuum and the distributor, all of it operates correctly on my car.
For the CEC (combined emmissions control) to operate - There are 2 reversing solenoids(located on the firewall, off center on the drivers side mounted back to back), the twin prong temp sender on pass side head, & the trans switch on the 3 4 shifter boss along with the carb vacuum break solenoid.