Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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Wish you were closer. The last California frame I bought was insanely mint requiring VERY little work before paint vs all the others that I spend up to 100 hours fixing. Not sure how I would get it here but PM me your asking price.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
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#2
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I thought Charley knew everything... I was wrong.
I am doing a protouring build with this 70 Chevelle, and am completely out of my wheelhouse on pricing this stock stuff. You guys who restore these cars are amazing, you recognize the wrong bolt head, wrong finish, wrong bracket on these cars a mile away. My way is much easier, I just install or change whatever I want lol.The car is pretty unmolested and still has most of the stock hose clamps, factory buckets and console, most all the stock stuff. I'm out of budget on my build so as I strip the car down I'm looking to sell this stuff to help fund new parts. I'm saving most everything and will come up with a list, but the pricing of this stuff is tough. I want it to be a good deal for everyone, but also don't want to give it away. I lean towards selling at less than maybe I could get by waiting, but the stuff sells right away. I've had a lot of older cars, but this frame to me is super clean. No dents, scrapes from jacks, bent edges, rust damage, etc. I have someone interested but have no idea what to ask for it. Ebay seems stupid high on the frames that are cleaned up and powdercoated. Thanks for the info.
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Jody |
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#3
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Isn't there a difference in a 1970 SuperSport (XU) frame and a standard 1970 Malibu frame? My 1970 LS-6 frame had XU stamped by the date and part number stamped in the side of the left rear frame rail. It was an Arlington 03C built car. Bill
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