Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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I made one a few years ago for my '55 Chev Gasser using a combination of old shifter parts and some good old ingenuity. The trickiest part was getting the angle correct between the handle and the rod/sleeve attached to the brake pedal.
Once I had that worked out the brake worked perfectly... I live in British Columbia, where using the brake at an uphill/downhill traffic light came in handy. The curved Hurst shifter handle (installed vertically & backwards) in conjunction with the shape of the dash was a perfect fit. I used adjustable shifter rods at each end of the fulcrum which enabled 'fine tuning' of the rod/sleeve. A light spring is required to ensure the handle is kept in the 'ready' position. :-) Last edited by ZAPPER68; 01-29-2020 at 03:49 AM. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to ZAPPER68 For This Useful Post: | ||
Xplantdad (01-30-2020) | ||
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#2
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Does it toggle overcenter, and hold the brake? Or does the driver hold the lever to apply the brake? The reason I ask: in my stick shift car, once the car is "staged" the foot brake is no longer needed. The car sort of settles into the slicks (wrinklewalls) and does not move. Set the launch rpm, sidestep the clutch when you see the last yellow, and away you go! K
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.56 @ 139 mph best Last edited by Keith Seymore; 01-29-2020 at 05:17 PM. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Keith Seymore For This Useful Post: | ||
markinnaples (01-29-2020) | ||
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#3
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I'm not sure an "increase in ET" is much of a selling point...
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.56 @ 139 mph best |
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#4
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I never used the brake at the track because I had a line lock for that exercise. However, without a line lock it would be useful to 'take out the slack' easily by clutch/race brake coordination...thereby possibly preventing a hard launch (& broken parts) clutch cars are notorious for. As we all know, sidestepping the clutch is brutal on the drivetrain which is something we're all guilty of at one time or another :-) When properly adjusted it will not overcenter and you must hold the lever (in my case the old Hurst shifter handle) to apply the brake. Easy peasy... Over centering will definately be an issue, especially in traffic for the folks lined up behind you with the traffic lights on green and your brakes are jammed. Not a good situation! Without exception, whenever I was at a car event people always asked me 'what the heck does that lever up by the dash do'? Once they understood the mechanics of the device they thought it was pretty cool and asked where I got it from. With a couple of modifications, I made mine using the same picture as a guide in your initial post. |
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#5
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K
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.56 @ 139 mph best |
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#6
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I don't know if this is relevant -- but if you're drag racing in a class where "no electronics" are allowed (such as a line loc) this device may be of an advantage. TAZ
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You've never lived until you've almost died -- for those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected will never know! |
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#7
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I have extra Shifter handles, I need to make one of these!!
Ryan W31
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold 1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold 1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31 |
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