NorCam (Graeme Browne's) Lemans Blue 1969 Z/28

[RPOLS3]

Originally Posted by NorCam

I'm not pulling the sub frame...and I'm not restoring this car.

Famous last words...……….

[NorCam]

If I was a betting man....(bahaha) I'd be giving Tim all my money.

Actually, today I am looking at some low toxicity (Non Methylene Chloride) chemical paint strippers. Much along the lines of Lloyds Fight Back graffiti removers that will spray on and wipe off in just a few minutes to take off spray paint and should leave the original finish (leave on overnight for a complete strip). Not sure that will work on the inner fenders, but the cling to version should work excellent on the frame rails, as well as all of hard lines w/o the need to remove them completely. Maybe giving the lines a brushing to loosen thicker material and recoat but might work well. Once it's done the work, it simply washes off with water to neutralize it. All of the hard line clips could then go into a bucket of chemical paint stripper to soak and remove the paint. These two processes might clean things up rather nicely. Products come bulk form or in aerosol cans and it's definitely worth a try.

I'll know how this works later in the week as I plan on testing a couple products first. If it works on a couple spot tests. I'll get the bulk material and go to town on the underside.

[napa68]

I've been experimenting with diesel fuel and Go Jo hand cleaner on the bottom of the car. The hand cleaner is nice because it clings to the surface. Seems to be gentle enough on the original finish.

I also purchased a smaller steam cleaner ($200) for the chassis and engine compartment work. It's a good complement to the aforementioned products. Certainly, the spiral cover on the brake and fuel lines can be tedious.

Carry on Graeme!

[Edgemontvillage]

Originally Posted by NorCam

... I'll be changing the fuel pump and the fuel line as it has been kinked in a couple spots and was routed outside of the water pump housing rather than underneath it....

Since you plan to change the fuel pump you might want to re-paint the bolt-on plate between the block and the fuel pump body low gloss black as per the factory.

[32KZ]

Originally Posted by RPOLS3

Famous last words...……….

7 years ago, was just gonna freshen the paint,,,then it came back,,,just clean up the engine compartment,,maybe remove some undercoating,,

Frame off, all fasteners , well everything re-finished,,should be done this spring.

[NorCam]

Originally Posted by 32KZ

7 years ago, was just gonna freshen the paint,,,then it came back,,,just clean up the engine compartment,,maybe remove some undercoating,,

Frame off, all fasteners , well everything re-finished,,should be done this spring.

Funny how that happens isn't it? Maybe you can tell us a little about the car you're restoring and post a couple pics. I always like to see what people are working on too. Is it a Z...what color...what interior?

[32KZ]

Ashgold 68z,,quite a bit on CRG,,jano

[R68GTO]

Originally Posted by NorCam

I'm not pulling the sub frame...and I'm not restoring this car.

I think those were the exact words I said I sense there are some paranormal forces at work in our car hobby.

[NorCam]

Just so that it is said, this car is in such remarkable condition for it's age that it really does not need to come apart or be restored. Body mounts are still very nice, there's no rust to be addressed and all it really needs is a good cleaning of the frame rails and suspension to dial it in. I'm picking up a fresh pail of evapo-rust today and plan to soak the original front springs which I may actually reuse since they are in such nice condition. I'll clean and strip all the original hard lines and get them dialed back to look like they should. Also picked up a new Bio-Agent that will strip the paint from all of the clips and fasteners and hopefully clean them up without harming any original plating that remains? More on that after some tests are performed.

I picked up a couple new cleaning agents yesterday and will remove the exhaust system later today so that I can get at the rear frame rails and will see how well the Lloyd's Fight Back Graffiti remover does to address removal of the previous owners spray paint work (one layer at a time). If that works out I will slowly work my way forward from there and take it one section at a time. Of course this all depends on the performance of the cleaners, reducers or whatever is needed to accomplish the cleaning this car deserves. I do not want to paint the underside nor do I think the car needs it.

In dealing with the diff, I'll pull it out so that I can thoroughly clean it and touch it up as needed. That will allow me to drop the rear springs and completely dial them back to stock factory appearance using the chemicals at hand. I will then treat them to Boeshield T-9 to coat the springs and protect them once cleaned. Once all of the hard lines and e-brake cables are cleaned and addressed, I'll likely coat them with Boeshield as well. Last thing I want to do here is fully restore the bottom of the car. It simply doesn't need it and would be an injustice of sorts. I'm going to be keeping that front of mind as I clean and preserve the bottom of the car. If I can accomplish that w/o needing to remove the sub frame, then my mission will have been accomplished.

My next few posts should start to reveal some results being met.

[big gear head]

This is just my thought and I don't mean to offend, but with all of the effort that you are putting into preserving the car, why would you add power steering to it when it isn't supposed to have it? I've been driving my big block '69 for 35 years with no power steering and it isn't hard to steer.