Oh Lordy, I now own a Fordy (a Lincoln actually)..

[njsteve]

Spent the weekend unbolting everything and removing the engine and transmission. I now realize why the factory manual recommends removing the engine by itself and the transmission later. This has to be the world's longest transmission! The adjustable leveling engine lifting saddle really came in handy as I had to pull it at a diagonal to get it to clear the nose since the entire front end rose about a 10 inches in the air once the weight of the engine was taken off the frame. I then had to pull the front tires and lower the body to the ground on two floor jacks just to get the assembly to clear the nose. Did it all by myself, with the wife and son only assisting during the final maneuvering over the front sheetmetal when someone had to hold up the trans yoke to clear the final hurdle while the hoist was pulled forward.

[njsteve]

I only broke two bolts during the entire process: one was a tiny 1/4" mounting bolt for the choke tube assembly to the intake and the other was the top water pump to timing cover 3/8" bolt. Everything else came out easy which is pretty darn amazing for a car that spent it's life in New Yawk.

Here's all the parts. I wasn't able to mount the engine to a stand today as I did not have the 5 inch by 7/16"-14 bolts that the 460 uses - much larger than the 3/8" bolts that usually go with GM engines. I had one old GM motor mount bolt that was perfect but without the other three, I was dead in the water. Going to the local Fastenal store tomorrow to get the right grade 8 bolts for the stand.

Time for cleaning that enormous engine bay. I'll be borrowing my friend's pressure washer his week to get all the old grease and gunk off the engine bay and the front suspension.

One thing I did find was missing: the water pump backing plate. My Dad brought the car to the local Lincoln Mercury Dealer to have the water pump replaced back in 1998 - they also did the timing chain at the same time since they broke a bunch of water pump-to-block bolts and had to pull the timing cover off anyway to drill out the broken bolts. (and set the timing to 5 degrees AFTER TDC when they were finished!!!). Looks like the dealer never bothered to reinstall the backing plate that gets sandwiched between two gaskets behind the water pump and directs the flow into the engine. Luckily the car never overheated since it was never driven around much after that repair job twenty years ago. I guess that also explains why the fan belts were wearing a bit weird due to being cocked from the 1/16" misalignment from lacking the water pump plate.

[njsteve]

By the way, does anyone happen to have an original power steering pump dipstick? The metal curled part of the handle broke off and is missing from mine. They make a chrome repro but I'd prefer an original one in case anyone has an old Ford rusting away in the backyard somewhere...

[njsteve]

Got the 7/16 x 5 inch bolts this morning and got the engine on the stand. Boy is this thing big and heavy. I started the disassembly and have already broken two 3/4" Craftsman sockets trying to pull the heads off. Those are some torqued down bolts! I'll need to use an impact rated socket tomorrow (after I buy one).

There is a ton of gunk inside that engine. When you touch it it crumbles more than smears. So it looks like I'll need to completely take this apart and hot tank the block to get all the goo out. That's what comes from 47 years of cold starts and limited driving. When I drained the oil (that only had 400 miles on it) - it was like black coal coming out of the drain plug. Can't wait to see what the oil analysis will say.

I pulled the first main cap to check the bearings. The crank looked great but the bearing was all copper. The rod bearing I checked looked fine and still had all its material intact. I'll Plastigage each one before I pull it all apart in the coming days. I like to know exactly how things were wearing in case I just go with a polish and re-bearing at STD size.

Interesting thing I am learning about Fords - they number the cylinders 1 through 4 on the passenger side and 5 through 8 on the driver's side. Not 1-3-5-7 and 2-4-6-8 like a GM. All the rods are number stamped.