Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
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#1
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All of the paint has been removed!
![]() ![]() Ended up using about 1 gallon of lacquer thinner, a pile of old rags, and some 0000 steel wool. The A pillar moldings were the easiest to remove the black paint. Placing rags soaked in lacquer thinner worked very quickly and completely. I don't think they are stainless steel. All other stainless pieces were a different story. They had two coats of paint that would not let go without more aggressive methods. The soaked rags loosened the paint a little, but not much. But soaking 0000 steel wool in lacquer thinner made the process more effective. On some pieces, it cut right through the black paint. The only piece that was marred was the upper trim on the back window. I suspect it was sanded before it was painted, because steel wool would not have done that damage. After removing the paint, I used an Adam's 2 step polishing treatment and waxed each piece. The anodizing appears to still be on each piece. I also polished the rear view mirror and bracket, coat hangers, and ash trays. Unfortunately, the corner pieces of the rear window are plastic, so for the short term, I sprayed them with "chrome" paint.
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Rick 1966 Chevy Caprice 427-390 2012 Chevy Camaro RS Convertible
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#2
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Looks great Rick! Nice job! I forgot those corner pieces on the back window are plastic. I've yet to take mine out.
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Mark 1966 L72, 4spd Caprice 1974 Z28, M40 Camaro |
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#3
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Thanks Mark. Now it looks "right" to me.
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Rick 1966 Chevy Caprice 427-390 2012 Chevy Camaro RS Convertible
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