Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
|
|||||||
| Register | Album Gallery | Thread Gallery | FAQ | Community | Calendar | Become a Paid Member | Today's Posts | Search |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
I took some underside photos while I had the car on the lift. You can see that we had the inspection cover off the bellhousing chasing that oil leak which looks more like a leaky oil galley or camshaft freeze plug since the oil seems to be coming from above the rear main seal. We put some leak detector dye in the oil a couple days ago and used the black light to find it. All it did was put a nice mist of dyed oil on the underside as part of the original Canadian self-rust proofing option.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Went to my mechanic buddy again this morning and we used his A/C vacuum pump to leak check the system. Rather tedious process as you have to pull it down to 28" of vacuum for 30 minutes and then let it sit for 30 minutes and watch the gauges to see if there are any leaks.
It leaked, so I tightened every hose. Redid the process and it leaked again, only faster. Replaced the rear O-rings in the compressor flange. Redid the test and it leaked. Then retightened everything again. Redid the process and it leaked. We both then got really frustrated and attached the R134 conversion flanges to the access ports so we could put in some R134 with leak detection dye. Before adding any R134 we redid the test and there were no leaks! It held for an hour with no movement on the gauge. So, that meant that his 40 year old O-ring in the hose flange nut for his R12 gauge set was leaking and not my A/C system. We both had to laugh after spending around 8 hours repeating the process over and over again. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif[/img] I didn't want to add my precious R12 at this time, because this winter I will be pulling the engine. I just wanted to know that the system was set up properly with no leaks. |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
I got home after driving around and took some more photos and measurements.
So here is the car. ![]() ![]() ![]() On 235/60x15 BFGs set at 32 PSI, with a spare tire in the trunk and a full tank of gas, she sits about 27-3/4" tall at the wheel well in the front and 28-3/8" tall in the rear. So the new coils dropped the front exactly an inch from the generic coils original measurements. The 1" de-arched leafs dropped the rear two inches from the 30-1/2" 4x4 look with the generic leaf springs, to 28-3/8" tall with the de-arched Stengal Bros springs. For comparison, the measurements on my 114,000 mile, 72 T/A with its original 3988100 AX code, front coils, and PL481612 rear leafs sitting on F60x15 Polyglas GTs with 32 PSI, was measured at 27-1/4" tall front and 28-1/4" in the rear. (My Formula was ordered with the T/A suspension option which would have been these exact springs.) So, I am happy with the way she sits now. Maybe after a thousand miles or two, she will settle another 1/4" or so. I will definitely say that she does ride beautifully on the new springs and the KYB Gas-Adjust shocks. |
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
BTW, I know I may be just a little compulsive about the ride height on this car but if you think about this analogy:
Ford "Caution Fan" stickers are to First Generation Camaros, as too-tall ride height are to Second Generation Trans Ams. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif[/img] Incorrect ride height is the ultimate pet peeve of every T/A afficionado - seeing a 4x4 looking Trans Am when it should be sitting low is an immediate tell tale of an incorrect restoration. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/scholar.gif[/img] |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Your attention to detail just nailed the stance! Nice work Steve. Cannot wait to see it at MCACN
|
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Sometimes, my obsessive compulsive disorder comes in handy. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/grin.gif[/img]
|
![]() |
|
|