Paint on fender wells and firewall

[mockingbird812]

Craig - tell us the particulars on your Camaro.

[Salvatore]

If it is just a fairly decent restoration you can dust the firewall in by removing as much stuff as you feel comfortable doing. My inner fenderwells are a bit to glossy on my camaro too but not enough to make me take it apart. Its also a Berger car. at least it has the correct emblem on it.

[firstgenaddict]

If it is only the front inner fenders which are irritating you here is something which I have used to remedy gloss problems in the past.
Fine polishing compound on a rag, and work by hand, sometimes this will knock enough gloss off, I have gone down as far as medium grit compound then come back to the fine to achieve the gloss level I wanted.
On the "visible part" of the inner fenders to get a decent result you would have to remove the battery, the heater hose retainer, the wiring straps and what ever else would interfere with your ability to access and hand rub-out all visible areas on both sides.
This is not going to be a small job, however it would save the dis-assembly, painting, and re-assembly.

[CamarosRus]

Schoney, Albert and others, I've been reading mag articles and the internet for ever. None of the pros or knowledgeable restorers want to share their black brands,#'s or formulations.

Please ?????

Also may we assume that these single stage black (formulas) are not color sanded or polished........so I would think gun quality,
tip size and painter experience is all important. SATA or IWATA #
(???)

Thanks,

[firstgenaddict]

If you cut the gloss w/ flatting agent and then cut and buff you are defeating the flattening agent... I tried it, besides on inner fenders etc you can't cut and buff all of it.

I bought Quarts of Blue, Red, and Yellow tint and add them to std black (I buy by the gallon) in order to achieve the subtle differences I have found when taking the cars apart.

I went through the trouble of having 10 or so different "black" parts scanned some which were not visibly different and they all came back with different mixes... it's easier and way less expensive to tint your own.

BTW Caterpillar offers a VERY nice black that is great for replicating "flo-cote" primer.

[Schonyenko2]

Chuck, pm justbadjoe. My 2 cents is that originally none of this stuff looked anywhere near as good as it is restored to now. there were differences in tone, and texture due to differences in suppliers and processes. (dipped/sprayed)
Laquer tends to flash dry to a blue haze. If you don't rub it out, it stays that way. I'm sure most parts went through a bake oven which changes thing also.
I don't think they much cared how it looked on the frame/stub area, or under the hood much at all. It needed to look semi respectable for maybe 6 months after the sale, then it went to down hill. JMHO

[iluv69s]

I have always used the original GM frame reconditioning paint...some of the parts are originally more glossy.. in that case I used a black lacquer with flattening agent. But I have had great results with the original GM black. I had a few cases of the original formula in the old cans, but recently bought a case of the newer stuff and it still looks great. It is single stage and comes ready to mix spray.

...anyone else use this stuff??

[m22mike]

Have to agree with Ken here, anyone that still has his 60's hair... [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif[/img].. has got to know a thing or two.
I have used some older GM reconditioning black, and I liked it for the most part.
On the few cars I have done over the last 15 years I prefere to use lacquer and flatten it myself, then I can change up the gloss level on differant parts. I love the look of the lacquer, and you could touch it up if needed. I have also had very good results using acrylic enamel W/ flattening added. For some cars I found a black DuPont machine acrylic enemal that was cheap to buy, and since it was going to be adjusted anyway the gloss was not a issue. Either way, I always shot the final black right over green PPG DP 90 (black), it does not take allot to cover that way.
On a side note , IMO, I do not care for single stag paint flattened, I think it is to hard to control the gloss level, especially when it is laid down wet.
The other thing to keep in mind here, like Ken said, there is no one magical answere to the underhood black issue.
All these cars we so cherish are now way over restored, and thats cool. It gives the restorer some artistic license. Paint UM like you like EM.. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/[/img]...and watch those Judges.. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/crazy.gif[/img]

[olredalert]

-----Does anyone miss the old Krylon semi-gloss black in rattle-can form as much as I do??? For rattle-can paint it was really good. As far as other rattle-can stuff, how about some of the NAPA stuff. For those of us not blessed with spray guns anymore the NAPA stuff is about as good as it gets. Its funny, NAPA has a &quot;frame&quot; black thats pretty good used for underhood, and an &quot;underhood&quot; black thats pretty good on frames. Somehow, they seem to have gotten it backward!...Bill S

[Alss]

I really liked the &quot;details&quot; brand rattle can semi black..dried real fast and had the right look..too bad they no longer make it.