1970 Z28 VIN ON BLOCK

[bergy]

I had a 1968 427/335 Corvette with the original decked block. Heated the pad up with a torch and the #s came out in relief. I know it's risky, but the metal is actually compressed when it's stamped, and heating it up "relaxes" the compression. The #s actually are raised when it works.

[67 Nova Boy]

Will map gas work?

Dave
67 Nova Boy

[vdavie]

Why would it be "50/50" if its stamped by the oil filter? If the Vin# is there and its correct, matches paperwork ect.. then i would think thats enough.

[CamarosRus]

vdavie, If clearly legible unmolested VIN # was stamped on bellhousing flange and it was appropriately matched with block casting date, I would agree that the decked block was born with the body.

It does detract from its desireability (IMO) and could well drive some buyers away.

[njsteve]

[ QUOTE ]
Will map gas work?

Dave
67 Nova Boy

[/ QUOTE ]


This is not something for amateurs. You really have to know what you are doing. For example, when you try the raise the #s with heat, you have only one chance to do it as the cast iron molecules change from their original stamped, stressed state to a de-stressed position. The numbers may only be visible for a very brief amount of time for you to capture them with a camera. And if you dont know how to take a macro photograph properly you may have lost your one and only chance.

[Big Block Bill]

About 15 years ago, a guy from the V.I.B.(Vehicle Investigations Section) at the Illinois State Police we tow for out of Elgin, showed me how to use a metal shafted, cotton ball style, shoe polish applicator dipped in battery acid, and a battery charger to lift up decked numbers on a "440" cast 1968 396/375 short block I had.

The best thing about doing it this way, are that the numbers are still legible today, and according to his research, the engine is out of a Camaro delivered to Nickey Chevrolet on June 2nd,1968, my 12th Birthday!

It could have been a take out of a 427 converted car. I tried looking for the car buy Vin. but never found it.

Bill Pankiw

[67 Nova Boy]

Not an amateur my friend....I have 31 years of forging with heat. I make high end fasteners for the space shuttle/boeing and work with all temps to very close tolences. Have I done a block? No!! Will I try...Will think this thru for sure. Oh yea....I made SPS rod bolts that we all used back in the day. Ya know what's in my motor. Thanks for the info, well taken.

Dave
67 Nova Boy

[njsteve]

[ QUOTE ]
Not an amateur my friend....I have 31 years of forging with heat. I make high end fasteners for the space shuttle/boeing and work with all temps to very close tolences. Have I done a block? No!! Will I try...Will think this thru for sure. Oh yea....I made SPS rod bolts that we all used back in the day. Ya know what's in my motor. Thanks for the info, well taken.

Dave
67 Nova Boy

[/ QUOTE ]


I was not implying you were an amateur at anything other than raising stamped numbers off of a cast iron block.

I'm just giving some advice on the subject since I do have some experience with the process and one mistake using the destructive heat process and the numbers you were trying to raise will be gone forever.

Anyone attempting to raise a serial number would be much wiser to use a non-destructive method if they have not done it many times before, or at least practice on some non-valuable blocks beforehand.

Here is some background info and a company that sells the appropriate crime scene kit.

http://lucy.mrs.org/2006brazil/wedpix/j502.pdf

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob...fd9918b4c82bbf5

http://books.google.com/books?id=KMfs_ez...ALS&f=false

http://www.crime-scene.com/store/A-8108B.shtml

[vdavie]

Thanks for the info. Has anybody tried this kit or one like it?

[67 Nova Boy]

Yes....I was NOT trying to be rude in any way!! I was very thankful for the advise you have given my friend!!
I'm a very laid back person and easy to get along with. I'm new here and do not want to get anyone mad at me!!

Dave
67 Nova Boy