Muscle car oil?

[Don_Lightfoot]

Thanks for the information Mark.

My situation is the car gets driven very rarely, maybe 200 miles per year or less, and is not raced or run at high RPM's (except the odd run through the gears). Would I benefit from the "thicker oil film" with the 15-W-30? I currently use 10-W-30 full synthetic from another manufacturer.

Appreciate it.

[firez]

I have used valvoline VR1 in my 68 Z, It has quite a bit of zinc in it and seems to work good

[markjohnson]

I think you'd be fine with the slightly thicker Mobil One. It's just VERY important to wait until the engine AND it's oil reaches operating temperature before any "enthusiastic" driving. I can't even begin to say how bad it is for an engine to be zinged-up with cold oil just after start-up.

[RichSchmidt]

The oil related issues going around are related to decreasing of ZDDP additive package to about 60 percent of what it was 15 years ago.ZDDP is an additive that provides protection from the oil film being diplaced by excessive surface pressure.This occurs at any engine speed including start up.An older engine that is well broken in will have the cam and lifter surfaces worn to mate each other sufficiently well that usually the newer standard oils will offer sufficient protection,and this is further helped by that fact that most older engine have valve springs that have lost some pressure over the years which reduces the load on the cam/lifter surface.

Newly rebuilt engines with flat tappet cams especially ones with high performance valvesprings need extra protection that the current street oils cant deliver.I use Shell Rotella in all my engines AND add a bottle of cam break in lube or GM engine oil suppliment at every oil change.Either one of these things would be more then enough protection for any engine that was rebuilt to muscle car era specs.