What cam would you run in a day 2 69 Z28

[BCreekDave]

I really loved my old school GK C1M-308R. I went from the 140 cam to this in my LT-1 and it was noticeably stronger in the mid range. It was hard on the valvetrain though. It also barely had enough vacuum for the brakes but man what a rush at 3500. This was with stock heads and the dual plane manifold. 4:10 gears and the M-21.

[rlw68]

Are your planning to leave the rest of the valve train stock? It seems like a good idea to update the rockers, maybe like these Comp Cam rollers. It wont keep me up at night without the O stamped originals on there.

The press in studs do create some anxiety though. They are original and cool but it seems worth the 'loss' to keep my original 302 in one piece. Am I worrying about nothing here??

I'm likely going with the Comp Cam 12-107-3 (3849346 replacement). My '69 has an M21 and 4.10 gears. Both of these have updated internals.

[GaryC]

Originally Posted by rlw68

Are your planning to leave the rest of the valve train stock? It seems like a good idea to update the rockers, maybe like these Comp Cam rollers. It wont keep me up at night without the O stamped originals on there.

The press in studs do create some anxiety though. They are original and cool but it seems worth the 'loss' to keep my original 302 in one piece. Am I worrying about nothing here??

I'm likely going with the Comp Cam 12-107-3 (3849346 replacement). My '69 has an M21 and 4.10 gears. Both of these have updated internals.

To add to my post above #51

I went with the magnum roller tips and gaped at true .030. On the studs I had my heads done with screw ins that look like the stock factory studs and the towers/bosses won't have to be milled this way. Personally, I'm not jamming the crap out of the engine ALL THE TIME, but when I do...I'm not worried. I have the race type studs with the guide plates put away, but I'd want to get another set of heads to not mess up my originals IF I ever use them. I run the 140 cam as well as the 30/30 with 4.10's and an M20. The M21 I was using always made the damn car rattle and shutter when I let the clutch out. I'm talking shake here.

[NorCam]

I'm in the same boat with the car I have now. I was thinking about roller rockers but then it usually mushrooms into removing the heads, doing a set of screw in studs, guides and likely more when I get to that stage.

I'm not planning to buzz my stock 302 beyond 6500 when hammering it through a few gears, and it's not like I'll be doing it that often so I then relented to leaving the stock valve train alone. Just my 2 bits...and just so you know, that 12-107-3 cam choice makes "excellent" vacuum for the brakes. Mine are fantastic right down to 900 idle and brakes work awesome.

[BCreekDave]

For the studs you can always do the old trick of pinning them. It's hard to see once done and keeps them from backing out.

[GaryC]

Originally Posted by BCreekDave

For the studs you can always do the old trick of pinning them. It's hard to see once done and keeps them from backing out.

I used the straight 'screw-in' studs as apposed to pinning, that make the head still look factory on my 302 with the 140 cam and comp cams roller tips rockers. Works well.

[aaronkl84corvett]

I have screw in studs/guideplates and and also amnusing the comp rollertip 1.52 rocker arms

[aaronkl84corvett]

as for mufflers - had an about face on the Borla stuff - and went with Spintech 1000xp in Stainless -

can't wait

[92646]

I have Spin tech mufflers on my 69 SS350 Nova with full length headers and I get allot of drone from idle up to 35 mph when the car heats up. The exhaust system was built for the car and is beautiful but I am going to change the mufflers someday.

[Astock]

The best running BBC's I've owned for the street, always had three things in common: 4:56-4:88 gears, high compression, and high performance GM cam (l-88 ZL1).
Can't say if it's the same for sbc, but I agree with Sam.