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R-12 AC question
Regarding a nice survivor car that has an R12 AC system that is not working properly. Do you bite the bullet and convert to a R134 system? Or suffer in the heat, don't drive the car much in the Summer. Concerned about removing the originality.
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Fix the AC n drive it!
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Yes, I agree. R12 is superior and is still somewhat available ;)
I am a fan of originality, especially of survivors of course. Cheers, Anthony |
Just recharge with R12! My '70 SS 454 Elco blows COLD!!!
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Anthony,Didn’t you list some R12 for sale recently?
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Use Duracool. No conversion or flushing necessary. I used it for years.
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R12 is readily available on Facebook marketplace by the can or cylinder. Most guys are asking $40-$50 per 12-14oz cans, so its not cheap. You will need about 60oz for the average '60s based system. If your system has not run for some time I would recommend flushing the system and pulling a vacuum to be sure it is not leaking. Replacing the dryer is also a good idea. All in all, just standard maintenance to the system. Converting your system to run 134a is much more involved and costly. Nothing cools like good old R12 in an original system.
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Good idea to replace the front seal in the A6 compressor also, notorious leak.
One of mine, replaced the seal and dryer, evac/recharge with R12 3 years ago, blows ice cold. |
Where did you get the front seal from?
Can't beat R12 for freezing yourself out of the car Quote:
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Thanks for the call out Richard, yes, I have some NOS R12 cans available and listed in the parts for sale section - couple of cases on hand at the moment.
Cheers everyone! Anthony |
To save you some searching, it's listed here:
https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=182822 Cheers friends, Anthony |
Quote:
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Quote:
"Here's a tidbit that a lot of folks aren't aware of. I like to pass it along to guys who have A6 compressors in their cars. There is a double lip neoprene shaft seal available that will backfit to the A6 compressor. It solves the problem of the old type ceramic/carbon seal seeping oil and getting it all over your hood, inner fender, etc. It's also more reliable than the mechanical seal for refrigerant retention. The part numbers are ACDelco# 15-30948 or, GM# 2724954 The seal is actually for newer HR6 and V5 compressors, but works great in the A6. Tom Go to autoacforum.com and do a search for .a thread titled "GM A-6 Compressors, Rebuilt?" There is an illustration that shows a cutaway of the A6 seal area and tells where to install the seal. It actually fits into the area where the seal "seat" used to sit. You remove all of the old seal components, install the oring into the seal bore, install the seal, then install the snap ring. You'll only use those 3 parts from the new seal kit. " That post was on a buick forum. https://www.carparts.com/a-c-compres...elco/ac1530948 |
Thanks for the replies, I am of the same mindset as you guys. Fix the R12 and go. The system is fully charged just have a stuck POA or something else. Will figure it out.
Thanks for the nudge! |
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Too bad your not in the D, you could use my equip if if don’t have any
I rescued my R12 system, after being empty for 15-20 years. Got a few stock PCs to put back on one day too. |
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