1971 Corvette TI ignition opinion please!!
 

I recently picked up a 71 Lt-1, the original carb and ignition system where MIA. I have remedied the carb with Eric Jackson. But, have no knowledge of the TI system. It currently has a Mallory tach drive with blaster coil, It has no issues, but I prefer my cars to be factory correct appearing at least. So question is; am I going to spend a bunch of money to go back to the TI system and run into problems, dependability issues? Like I said I have no experience with them or their performance reputation. Also thought of sending a spare stock tach drive distributor out for a rebuild and just install an aftermarket magnetic points replacement system in it....at least a little closer to original appearance. So what are the ins and outs of the TI system? Looking for your opinion BillS!! :grin:

Is the TI AMP box still mounted to the fender well on the drivers side behind the headlamp.
The 272 coils were never offered in service thus are difficult to find and EXPENSIVE $500 - the reproductions are not worth having.
My Green LT1 has the original box distributor and coil,
The Black LT1 has all of the parts with the car however currently it has a mallory distributor.
I imagine it could run 1500 - 2000 to convert the car back if you have to buy everything.

YOU COULD put a points distributor and coil with a TI coil label and dummy the TI harness.

They make solid state circuit boards for the amplifiers and they generally do not have problems.
You can also service the original boards yourself with new MUCH BETTER transistors for less than $100 in parts.
The systems are good for 10k RPM and unlike points have no wear points like the distributor lobes or the actual points faces.

Been meaning to look, and finally did. Yes its there. I have receipts from the restoration in 1998 and a reproduction TI harness was purchased.
I assume it is still in place. I can see why they probably did not remove the AMP box when they replaced the TI distributor. wow! not the easliest place to access.

I fear buying all the right components to return to stock only to find the "new" parts need to be rebuilt and restored.
Thanks for some education!!

The son of the previous owner who had the restoration done took possession of the car toward the end, and along with changing the ignition, had assorted ARP bolts installed as well as chrome hold down and thermostat housing. What belongs in the manifold vacuum port with the blue anodized plug?

A few shots to share.

----Looking at your very cool LT1 and the fact that you have the harness and the box (weather it works presently or not) if it was me I'd find a distributer and chase down a reasonably priced coil and you are home. You don't have to have down time as you already have a running driving car. Take your time. Maybe the guys and I will keep our eyes open. You won't regret this scenario!......Bill S

BTW... NICE LT1 Roadster I am guessing Sunflower Yellow - Black leather, vinyl covered hardtop tilt tele! Which trans and gear?

Build date between end of Nov and 2nd week of March?
It has a 5 port washer pump with 2 ports jumped - which is common for Nov - early march - Cars before the strike have headlamp washers. After the strike no washers but the pump was the same until mid march.
It's got a 71 LS6 fuel line and a later waterpump.
The correct waterpump for a 71-72 is a 3991399 and they are not very common, If not mistaken there are 4 dates they were made.
I believe that the passenger exhaust manifold is a Fuelie or off of an earlier car with the port for the choke tube.


The fuel line and block look just like a 69 -72 Z28 - along with the rear fuel line support.
Rear intake hole should have a fitting for the Power brakes and then another port for the vacuum take off.

Here are photos of the fitting and the pipe which bolts to the throttle cable bracket.

The first photo was taken the day the car arrived and The STAMP RITE bracket should have had an indented hex head screw not a pan head phillips. (it is correct now)
You can check the COILS with a Ohm meter across the terminals, the regular coil reads 1.6 ohms the TI reads much less - under 1 ohm.

I think the guru is dave Fiedler, look up vette ti ignition.

Do you have a stock tach drive distributor, you can add the ti.

Car looks very complete. couple of "easy" fixes. wrong water pump and wrong carb distribution block.
WP easy to find, Paragon Vette parts has the right carb block.
TI stuff is coming down in price, if you are looking for a numbers matching car then call Fiedler. But Fbay has stuff all the time.
The ONLY way to get the LT1 to run properly , as an LT1 is to have the CORRECT distributor shaft and top piece for it. Those two pieces are the "secret" to getting the the car to run properly. Fixing the TI will not make this run properly until you have all the pieces....

talk to dave fiedler. have him build you a correct ti set up. if he has a core in stock, youll be money ahead just having him build you a set up. you buy something used, likely youll just be sending him a body...since half the parts are junk. hes not cheap but you wont be disappointed. ive had him do a few for me. his work is superb.

Just to add one more opinion, I have a TI ignition on my 71 LT-1 (NOM) with the solid state board in the amplifier. Starts great cold or hot and hasn't failed in the six or seven years I've been running it.

"I can see why they probably did not remove the AMP box when they replaced the TI distributor. wow! not the easliest place to access..."

It's a little awkward but not that bad.

All great stuff! much appreciated.
Build: E19 December 70
M21
3:70
I do have a few distributors here, turns out the one I was considering for a donor is 1111926 -1969-427
Fingers crossed/ I bought a nice used 4 piece fuel line set-up at Corvettes Carlisle 25 years ago/ hopefully its correct for this car / has to be the reason I've had it this long.
thanks for the photos James, I clicked the photo link in your signature and it took me to my own photos..lol, guess I need to log out of mine. look forward to any and all input to getting mine correct under the hood. :beers:

----Been thinking a bit more about your T.I. and if it was me I think I would replace the T.I. harness even though your harness is there. The harness is probably the cheapest part of the system and a new harness would give you peace of mind. Your harness has been in the car for 51 years now!.....Bill S

I dug out the fuel line I picked up years ago. thoughts?
I was (what I'd call) lucky enough to pick up this pair of valve covers on ebay last week for $80. At the time of the resoration new valve covers where purchased and installed, but with the twist oil filler. Very happy I found these.
Thanks for the suggestion on the harness Bill. If one is still present, it should be the reproduction purchased @20 years ago, which didn't spend much time in service.

Nice score on the valve covers... they are not the easiest pieces to locate being only a 2 year usage.
Anything you want photos of let me know... my car mostly misses points for condition NOT originality.

I painted a Warbonnet 71 LT1 roadster nearly 2 years ago which was built the same approx time frame.- early Dec

FYI I saw a rebuilt 3991399 on ebay in the last week for under $100 - typcially they run $250 - $300 rebuilt.

Plug wire stands on the intake were orginally brush painted Orange AFTER installation - chrome waterneck - no washers under the intake bolts - the bolts where there are lift brackets received a Integrated (not captured) washer head bolt -

Is your MK 9 radiator TAG still on the radiator? They are not reproduced and are VERY difficult to locate.

Hi... The valve covers are good, the fuel block good. Remember what I said, you NEED the correct distributor shaft and top cam to complete the deal.
It won't run worth s--- without that.
The wiring harness is an easy find, replace the TI guts with a new circuit board and it should haul azz

Aircraft type Screw clamps on the upper and lower radiator hoses are correct for 69 and newer.
The correct ones read: SURE TITE 28 -

The heater hoses did use tower clamps.
If you want those correct the 3/4 is a DMC tower clamp which is yellow zinc dichromate and the 5/8 are std zinc Whittaker tower clamp.
Also if looking for a correct appearance you can use some alcohol or goof off and remove the GM stencils from the heater hoses - there was a letter code every so many feet but no GM logo.
238 distributors with all the correct parts come up from time to time.
I have recently seen some 536 advance poles /starwheels
A NOS LT1 536 on ebay for $375
and one manufactured by EC for under $200
The difficult item will be the 272 coil. They fetch $350-500.

Try this link to the album of LT1 photos.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wMRDJgmyDyAwc9Nh8

Can't remember the #, but I'm pretty sure you are wrong on the "right" advance cam.

If you don't have the correct shaft, the right cam still doesn't give you the performance.

I think the correct vacuum advance is 437 15


Thoughts on this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-71-MAS...53.m1438.l2649


Another question: I have the idle stop bracket for the carb, but what solenoid does it take?


Thanks for the Photo link James...great stuff!!

Yes, 437-15 is the vacuum advance pod,
In reference to the 536 advance - I was referencing the mechanical advance mechanism inside the distributor.

The solenoids run $40 - $100 for a NOS one. I bought a NOS one recently for $40.
Here is one for $42.50
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BUICK-CHEVROLET-OLDSMOBILE-PONTIAC-IDLE-SOLENOID-1971-1972-1973-1114444/203181000562?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649


It plumbs between the carb vacuum and the distributor, all of it operates correctly on my car.
For the CEC (combined emmissions control) to operate - There are 2 reversing solenoids(located on the firewall, off center on the drivers side mounted back to back), the twin prong temp sender on pass side head, & the trans switch on the 3 4 shifter boss along with the carb vacuum break solenoid.

Hey James - I sent you a PM.