"Plain Jane" 1970 Nova Build

[Arrowsmith]

Originally Posted by jer

I've got a couple repro caps, one on a dewitt's brass/copper and a couple others on oem recores.....no issues. Does your rad neck measure the same depth and seat diameter as oem? Spring pressure feel the same?

Yes, but I believe the problem is in the cap. Over the years it seems other folks have had similar issues with repro caps. It’s kind of a hit and miss situation from what I decipher. I suspect if I had a rad cap pressure tester, I could nail it down exactly, but honestly since it’s working correctly now, I don’t think I want to spend $$$ on the test equipment😉

[cheveslakr]

Not suggesting this for you, I'm sure I'd just be happy with the new cap, but someone could just plug a t fitting in the bypass hose and check pressure.

[Arrowsmith]

Originally Posted by jer

Not suggesting this for you, I'm sure I'd just be happy with the new cap, but someone could just plug a t fitting in the bypass hose and check pressure.

Good tip.

I can't use it for my car because I don't use a bypass hose (no machined port in the intake). I use a drilled thermostat from Stewart. That part works great.

[Arrowsmith]

Originally Posted by '69Novajoe

Hey Wayne, I've decided to install subframe connectors, as you did, on my Nova. Without looking first, did you encounter a problem with the parking brake cables??

Hi there…they fit nicely with the Competition Engineering connectors I used. If you click to post #137 of this thread you can see the front of the routing. Zero issues at the rear as well….if you jump to the cars for sale section, my ad is still up for the car (although no longer for sale).. there are several good images of the chassis and park brake cables. Hope this helps

['69Novajoe]

Thanks for that Wayne!! Also, where were you able to source the stainless parking brake cables??

[Arrowsmith]

Originally Posted by '69Novajoe

Thanks for that Wayne!! Also, where were you able to source the stainless parking brake cables??

IIRC, they came from Inline Tube.

['69Novajoe]

Hey Wayne, another quick question. I know you used different a-arms than what I'm using, but I'm encountering a "problem" and was wondering if you had the same issue. I'm using Global West, both upper and lower arms. The upper ones don't have a location (or threaded "bung"?) for the brake line bracket to hold the flexible line like the stock arms do. And the lower arms don't have any kind of steering stop like the stock ones do. Did yours come with those "provisions" and, if not, how did you address them?

[Arrowsmith]

Hi Joe. I have Detroit Speed uppers and lowers in the car. They do not have a provision to clamp the brake hose, but when I built the car I ran the suspension on both sides through full travel and checked the steering lock to lock at the same time. I’m confident the hoses will not be caught anywhere during suspension travel or when turning.

As far as the steering stops are concerned, I have them, so I can’t comment. Plenty of aftermarket an arms do not have steering stops. My blue Nova didn’t have stops (TRZ a arms). The guy who bought it is still delighted with the entire car, so you can take it from there .

Good luck with the build and if you have any questions, fire away. I’ll answer if I can.

['69Novajoe]

Hi Wayne, just thought of another question. I will probably be buying some new rear axles and will also be needing longer wheel lug studs, since now there are no threads coming through the stock lug nuts!! I know they come in all different lengths but I didn't want to get them too long because I'm concerned they might hit the hub caps!! I'm going with the stock caps just like you have. So, my question is, what length studs did you go with?
Thanks again for all your help!
Joe

[Arrowsmith]

Hey Joe… in next few days I’ll pop off a hubcap and get you a measurement.