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#1
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After soaking overnight in the magic derusting cylinder, here are the results at the moment. Just an interesting note: the small pool heater I had hanging in the fluid at the top of the cylinder resulted in better derusting results on the end of the driveshaft that was closest to the heat source. So that is today's lesson: the warmer it is, the faster it works. This is an old gallon I have been using - and it more than filled the space needed to fully submerge the driveshaft...oh an BTW, driveshafts float, so I used the yoke to weigh it down enough to keep it fully submerged.
The mud colored water in the blue bucket is the runoff resulting after I scrubbed the driveshaft with a brush. That's another tip: frequently remove the object from the liquid and scrub it down to get the derusted residue off the surface and allow the liquid easier access to the metal. P.S. don't dip certain plated items in the liquid - it will dissolve the plating. Not so much with chrome, but it removes blueing, black oxide, cad plating, zinc, galvanizing,. It will also attack pot-metal pieces. If it is plain old iron/steel (and grease-free), it works like magic. I will pick up some more (fresher) evaporust tomorrow. After a while, the solution absorbs so much iron that it reduces its effectiveness drastically. It should be amber colored. If it is dark or black, it is no longer going to do much good. Last edited by njsteve; 09-27-2020 at 02:05 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to njsteve For This Useful Post: | ||
big gear head (09-27-2020) |
#2
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The question is what do you do with the nasty liquid with the junk in it when you're done?
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#3
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The liquid itself is harmless and biodegradable and can legally be dumped down a drain. However, the solids in the waste will dictate disposal. I seperate the solids from the liquid before I dump it.
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#4
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Good to know. Thanks, Rick.
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#5
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You can extend the life of the liquid by straining it through a cloth with a magnet in it. It pulls away some of the iron and gives a longer life to the liquid because the liquid will continue to work on any remaining iron residue, 24/7.
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#6
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Working on the old gal this weekend. I was going to put in the headliner today but it turns out I am missing a single headliner bow clip. UGH! This is the little doo-hickies that the end of the headliner bow sits in. Forensic analysis indicates that this one has been missing since before paint because the primer is covering its mounting location. Anyone got a random one in their tool box? They make them new but I don't need a set of 10 for $25.
I got the headliner padding/insulation glued in though, so that's done. Last edited by njsteve; 10-04-2020 at 06:22 PM. |
#7
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here's that clip I need.
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#8
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The saddest photo in the universe. If only I had a time machine to go back and find the broadcast sheet that was taped to this exact spot while it was rolling down the assembly line. You can see the tape and sheet fragments where it was stuck on there back in 1970.
Last edited by njsteve; 10-04-2020 at 06:33 PM. |
#9
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The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to Lee Stewart For This Useful Post: | ||
69b5bee (10-09-2020), markinnaples (10-07-2020), olredalert (10-07-2020), PeteLeathersac (10-09-2020), R68GTO (10-07-2020), Tracker1 (10-10-2020), X66 714 (10-07-2020) |
#10
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Wow, that is going to be so sweet when it's all done, whew.
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1968 Camaro Ex-ISCA Show Car - Sold ![]() On The Lookout For My Next Classic... John 10:30 |
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