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#51
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Thanks, but no. [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/wink.gif[/img]
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#52
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Leave it a stick...
__________________
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#53
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MosportGreen66</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Leave it a stick... </div></div>
This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ |
#54
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Eric, I'm not sure I understand how a new lightweight hi-perf driveshaft is only rated for 4000rpm. I'm sure I"m missing something.
That is terrible carnage. I never would have imagined that failure would have torn the trans off the bell! Verne [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/dunno.gif[/img] |
#55
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I want to keep a stick in it if at all possible, but after this incident, whatever goes back in the car will be as bullet-proof as I can afford to make it. I have a few manual trans options I'm considering, I'll just have to wait to see how things shake out over the next week or two.
I checked the Quicktime (now owned by Lakewood) website and it appears they do offer a repair & re-certification service for their bellhousings, so hopefully I don't have to throw this one on the scrap pile along with the trans & driveshaft. Verne; It wasn't a high performance drive shaft, it was a stock replacement unit. Look over this chart, it explains everything. It all has to do with length, tube diameter and material: (My driveshaft was 60" and 3" mild steel tube) ![]() I have decided one thing for certain--even if it means cutting/altering the driveshaft tunnel, the car <span style="font-weight: bold">will</span> have a 4" drive shaft in it this time. This is about how I feel right now. ![]() |
#56
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I bought this for my Nova when I went back to a Muncie. Real nice piece and great people to deal with. A driveline vibration disappeared after this (not that my car does not have enough vibrations due to solid mounts)
This was $467 to my door in 2013. It is a 3.5" by 54.75". The 3.5 inch is tight in the tunnel, but doable. ![]() |
#57
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Aluminum?
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#58
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Yes it is
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#59
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Eric, really sorry to hear about the mishap. I had something similar happen to me going about 100 mph when the trans tailshaft grenaded. I'm all for more HP, but for only a 25 HP loss on a non competition car, I think it seems more practical to go back to the stock oil pan. LOTS of hipo engines running just fine with a stock pan and that eliminates the needs for expensive and custom driveshaft and all the other issues.
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#60
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It wasn't just 25 HP, it also resolved a serious windage issue which was causing oil pressure to drop rapidly above 5500 rpm. These 4.25"+ stroke cranks open up a whole `nother can of worms when it comes to oil control.
I'm considering picking up another identical Milodon pan and reducing the front sump depth by ~1/2" which would allow the engine to sit at OEM height. |
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