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  #41  
Old 04-30-2024, 03:29 PM
Lynn Lynn is online now
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And that is the problem. I do not have a perfectly flat surface.
I have a couple of friends that have body shops. I may contact one of them to see if they can put it on a frame machine and check for twist.
Everything is square just measuring from the bottom. I have it upside down right now.
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  #42  
Old 05-01-2024, 05:26 AM
Rsconv68 Rsconv68 is online now
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Very nice. I helped a friend do his 72 in his garage. He had everything figured out except how to get the body back on. I called a friend with his tow truck and half the neighborhood was there taking bets whether it would work. We lowered it on the frame in less than 15 minutes, rolled it back in the garage, and crowned ourselves kings of the world.
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  #43  
Old 05-01-2024, 04:53 PM
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Usually more than one way to get things done.
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  #44  
Old 05-01-2024, 05:31 PM
Kurt S Kurt S is offline
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You could use a laser level. They are cheap on Amazon. Set on one mount and measure at the other mounts....
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  #45  
Old 05-12-2024, 03:07 AM
Lynn Lynn is online now
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Kurt. Thanks a million for this suggestion. Bought one on Amazon for $55. Didn't take long to set up. Was able to check the spare frame for twist, and was pleasantly surprised. No measurable twist!!! That meant I could go ahead and start work on this baby.

Today was a good day. I got all the little bagged and tagged parts off my work benches, and into a large storage cabinet that I picked up at a surplus auction for $15.

I made some adapters to bolt the body jig to one of my body carts, so I could roll the body around. Got it off the lift and Sherri helped me roll it into a spare bay. I hate having the lift tied up. I won't be doing any body work (it needs almost nothing other than the headlight bar replaced) until I have the rolling chassis fully ready to go. I plan to use the old frame, and whatever rolling parts I don't use to make an extra roller so that i can bolt the body to it temporarily. That way I can roll it on my trailer and take it to a paint shop for final paint, and I DON'T have to worry about any overspray on my freshly restored chassis.

One of my pet peeves is the obligatory giant dent in the subframe on almost all c2 & C3 Corvettes (and first gen Camaros) caused by using a floor jack without a 2x6 on top of the jack. My spare frame is no exception. I repaired that dent 12 years ago before putting my Z back together. Took the same approach on this one, except that I welded in a couple supports and welded a long piece of steel to the underside of the plate after getting it back into the right shape. My reinforcement metal is almost double the thickness of the frame metal. My hope is that even if some moron jacks it up by the subframe, it won't bend again. You can see I got good penetration on the welds.
Not quite done yet, but got it roughed in. Sorry; forgot to take a "before" pic. Trust me; it was hideous.

Also; after working for 8 hours on Corvette stuff, I pulled the distributor in the Spitfire and ran the oil pump with a drill. Now has oil pressure when cranking!!! Will post in that thread.
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  #46  
Old 05-12-2024, 12:02 PM
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Pretty slick reinforcement!
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  #47  
Old 05-31-2024, 04:16 PM
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Have not posted on this thread in a while. Been handling some projects for Sherri. I did get to clean up each of the two frames I have here. I need some help from the Corvette experts.

I have sought help from the Judging Manual on this. No mention.

I know that the part number and date of assembly of the frame was stenciled on an outer rail. I found evidence; although hard to read.

I also know that, although the manual is SILENT on the VIN or partial VIN stamping on the frame, folks have posted pics of the VIN being stamped on top of the driver side frame rail just in front of the rear axle. I have two frames here, and NO EVIDENCE on either one of any VIN, whole or partial. One is pretty rusty, but not up on top. The other is not rusty at all, but still no evidence of a VIN.

Do you know if some of the 1970 models (restoring my 70 LT-1) could have been assembled without the VIN being stamped on the top of the frame?

Last question; again the Judging manual is silent on this. Both of these (1970) frames have some stampings on the underside. The rear reinforcing gussets on one of the frames are too rusty to see any stamps, at least before I get a chance to turn it over and clean it well. On the other, there are clearly stamps about the size of a quarter with -10 inside the circle. Pics attached. One frame has -30 in a circle on the driver side of the cross member; the other has -70. The judging manual mentions green crayon marks of something like "1" "2" or "3" to indicate how many shims need to go above the aluminum body mount bushing. But it says nothing about "minus" numbers with a circle around them.
The -70 stamp is not at deep as the others, but obviously done with the same process.

As usual, thanks for any help.
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  #48  
Old 06-01-2024, 09:12 PM
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Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
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  #49  
Old 06-02-2024, 11:43 AM
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Lynn,

I suspect the reason NCRS does not address the questions at hand, is due to the fact they do not want to give counterfeiters the blueprints. My 70 is in the trailer ready to travel this week. If you can wait until mid next week, I can get my car on the hoist and get the LR wheel off to take some pics and measurements.

Items such as stampings, trim tags, VIN tags, etc., are examples that the NCRS and other groups (judges) really do not discuss, for the reason I mentioned above.

What is the date of your car?

PM me your contact information.

Tim
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  #50  
Old 06-02-2024, 02:10 PM
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My '66 has both gussets stamped with the -10, and had no evidence of the chalk marks but the part no. stencil was quite obvious. I suspect the vin. isn't addressed because it's so difficult if not impossible to be seen and judged. I haven't purchased a judging manual for my car, but have referrenced the experts on the C2 forum, and they're always glad to help.
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