1969 Camaro L78 conv ( came from east coast) - Page 4

**ssl78** · #1 12-14-2015, 11:10 PM

Yes I already printed the form out I just need to get the form notorized saying the title is in my nane. I hope I am lucky enough to get something back. Bob you are the 2nd guy who said try a black light I will have to get one.
I had to change the headlight switch and it had a fuel line clamp holding the 2 lines together any body ever see that. The headlight switch in the picture is the new one I was putting in.

**ssl78** · #2 01-01-2016, 11:28 PM

Does any body know the thickness of a 69 Chevy big block deck pad that hasnt been decked. The first shot is a block thats been decked the second is a non decked block but it is a 74 dated block.
Wouldnt this be a sure way of being able to identify a restamp

**WILMASBOYL78** · #3 01-01-2016, 11:43 PM

Interesting approach...seems logical. I'm sure the experts will let you know soon.

wilma

bbbentley · #4 01-02-2016, 12:49 AM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ssl78</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Does any body know the thickness of a 69 Chevy big block deck pad that hasnt been decked. The first shot is a block thats been decked the second is a non decked block but it is a 74 dated block.
Wouldnt this be a sure way of being able to identify a restamp

</div></div>

My educated opinion is that would not give a conclusive answer. There are core shifts in castings and that is why some have thin cylinder walls on 1 side after a re-bore and also why the thrust surface where the cam is installed is off center often. Because of these shifts that pad probably falls into a range that could vary .100 (swag) whereas a deck may be as little as a clean up cut or a blueprint (zero deck height to piston tops). There are so many variables that nothing conclusive could be measured from that pad thickness,IMO.

DarrenX33 · #5 01-02-2016, 12:26 AM

John leave the glue. It's X2.

**ssl78** · #6 01-02-2016, 03:11 PM

The back seat is back in already I didnt do anything with it. It would be nice to know what a lot of original pad thicknesses are.

**olredalert** · #7 01-02-2016, 05:22 PM

----John,,,When I look at the pic of the vacuum lines and clamp I think I see splits on both those lines. I believe the clamp was a weird attempt to stop a vacuum leak......Bill S

**black69** · #8 01-02-2016, 07:27 PM

Glad the black light worked. There is no evidence there was ever a 4 there. I see more of the 2 in the non black light shot (the top corner, clear enough to define the size of the character). I see the left top portion of the X show up in the black light photo. All in all, looks like an X2 vs anything else. Any doubt, the untouched heater box confirms that (to me). I would never touch that glue, either.

**ssl78** · #9 01-02-2016, 09:50 PM

Bill thats very possible. I ended up taking the clamp off and trimming back the hoses before I installed the new one. Bob I didnt want to fool around with the glue I just left it.

**bergy** · #10 01-02-2016, 12:06 PM

I agree. The pad dimension is established in the machining operation that locates the block off of "as cast" pads. Since the castings varied slightly - the thickness of the machined pad varied as well. One "tell" however, is the "lip" on the water pump casting when it bolts up to the block (the distance that the water pump sticks above or below the pad). Since the water pump mounting bolt holes are established from the same locating pads as the head face, there should be some consistency in "lip" area. I've seen some "original" stamps where the water pump sticks up way above the pad stamp area. It's not a 100% "tell" of a decked block, but certainly bad juju. JMHO

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