Cragar ss 15 X 4 5-4.75 direct bolt pattern on Ebay

[1967 4K]

This discussion about the 15x4’s and difference in the first style and second style of the original wheels was on the site here about a years or so ago with good pics showing the two wheels. I have the second style 15x4’s on my car now. When I bought them they were okay driver quality. I searched for ever before finding a chrome shop that would replate them.
I’d post pics here but it would be easier for me to find the cure for the common cold than figure out how to post a pic! I’ve got a lot of money in mine so if you can find a nice set for 6 or 7 hundred you better get em.
1967 4K

[Bernhard]

Originally Posted by BillD

Be careful with the re-chroming. If the wheels getting the re-chrome have pits in them chances are you are not going to be happy with the outcome. You really have to have a good set to start with. Peeling chrome is OK.

Thanks for the reply, I agree the core wheel has to be a pit free clean original.

[NorCam]

Originally Posted by BillD

Be careful with the re-chroming. If the wheels getting the re-chrome have pits in them chances are you are not going to be happy with the outcome. You really have to have a good set to start with. Peeling chrome is OK.

Bill knows all about this as he found a company in California that re-plated a set of wheels for him. I don't believe this service comes with a guarantee that the castings won't break when they are separated for plating if I recall correctly?

[Bernhard]

https://claremont-ca.showmethead.com...lery/18923233/

Here is a early set of Cragar SS 15 X 4 rims

This is how I would describe the rim in the link
Direct bolt
Round spoke
Round spoke with narrow outer rim
No bead lock



Differences to look for:
Center section differences
Round spoke with a wide outer rim
Round spoke with a narrow outer rim

Direct bolt
uni-lug

Bead locks
No bead locks

Todays wheels have :

Uni-lug
or
Direct bolt acorn nut

Flat spoke center
Flat spoke center narrow outer rim

I think there might be differences in the rim itself

I would recommend doing a thread search on the forum, there has been some very good and detailed threads on this topic.

[cook_dw]

https://www.cosmichrome.com/spray-chrome/

[Bernhard]

I’m going with a shop that will plate the wheel together
I like this process better it might not produce as durable a finish in the space between the center section and rim
But I feel more comfortable with this method as the car will be raced.
I think one could lower the risk of the chrome failing in this area by sealing this space with a clear type of sealer or clear coat paint

[whitetop]

Originally Posted by Bernhard

I’m going with a shop that will plate the wheel together

Can't be done ... center section is aluminum and outer rim is steel of course.

[Bernhard]

Originally Posted by whitetop

Can't be done ... center section is aluminum and outer rim is steel of course.

A member on this board had a set done and they turned out very nice.
There is no guarantee because the chrome cannot fully plate in the seam.
I do not have a issue with this as I rather not cut the rims apart, and I plan on treating the area so that it will not rust or start pealing.

The shop has done many sets so yes it can be done its just not ideal.









.

[big gear head]

How was the aluminum center attached to the steel wheel?

[NorCam]

Aluminum cores are pressed into outer steel hoop then welded in with (5 ea) 2" beads between 2 dissimilar metals as seen here on the back side of this NOS rim. Welds need to be broken to separate the hoop and then both pieces would need chemical stripping before being re-plated in this process. Expensive and I was told there are only a couple who will do this work now days. I was also told that if the aluminum core break or cracks when being removed from the outer hoop, the wheel is garbage.

Click the image for high res shot.