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#21
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Boy, that's tuff, I would love to go at it with a 10x glass up on a stand.
As far as the blocks that were never vin stamped, tha Orange 69 COPO Camaro I had in Brians display at MCACN has in it a dated for the car MN block, never stamped, and we left it as is. So it has happened. Mike |
#22
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Brent, i have the same problem with my Z. They are so lightly stamped you can't read it. With a mag glass with the right light and angle i was able to read the letter N and a couple of numbers which are in the vin. Spray some paint on the area and wipe it off with a rag while it's still wet, you might get lucky and see something. Jerry even states in his book that most of the vins stamped down there are hard to read.
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#23
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Let me ask can I say born with motor car or will people dispute it after the restro .What do you or everybody else say about what your car is born with motor ?.Thanks Bruce and guys for your help
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1968 ChevyII 396 375,1969 Camaro 396 375 survivor , 1969 Dynamotion Copo Camaro,1968 L 79 ChevyII ,1969 Camaro 427 ratsness ,1967 Chevelle L79 |
#24
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All numbers look legit, call it numbers matching or original factory drivetrain.
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67 Z28, 67 RS/SS 396 Canadian, 73 Camaro Z28/LT Carolina Blue |
#25
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In the straight on picture it looks like a 7 lines up with the dowel. Close to the top edge
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Bill |
#26
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Looks like you are good to go Brent. I would not worry about it.
Looks to be a real nice find! |
#27
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To get accurate photos of indented stampings you need to light the area in question from a shallow angle, and take a ton of photos with the light moving up in angle each time. A little water can aid in providing contrast once it starts evaporating. Any indented areas tend to absorb and hold the moisture longer than the virgin, cast material thereby providing a better image.
Kind of like the sun rising from the horizon of the block's edge, up to about 45 degrees. You are trying to get a shadow to cast into the indentions. Taking a photo with the light hitting perpendicular to the surface only serves to wash out any possible stamping marks. |
#28
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Incredible score Brent. NICE colors and great setup!
That is the best street perfomance gear setup you could get M20 and 4.10 is AWESOME... don't even have to rev it up when letting out the clutch and WOW get a 3.73 M21 car beside you and he hasn't a chance in hell.
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~JAG~ NCRS#65120 68 GTO HO 4 spd Alpine Blue /Parchment 2 owner car #21783 71 Corvette LT1 45k miles Orig paint - Brandshatch Green - National Top Flight - last known 71 LT1 built. 71 Corvette LT1 42k miles Original paint - Black - black leather - only black LT1 known to exist. NUMEROUS Lemans blue Camaros, Monza Red and Daytona Yellow Corvettes & a Chevelle or two... Survivors, restored cars, & other photos https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos |
#29
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[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
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#30
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![]() <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: resto4u</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All numbers look legit, call it numbers matching or original factory drivetrain. </div></div> Actually no as #'s matching often indicates restamp parts & original factory drivetrain a completely different thing! Obviously the 'matching #'s' term is used purposely w/ restamps to blur the reality...stating specifically and/or including 'original drivetrain' in a description when so can add value to those in the know although inspection still always req'd to confirm. Another nice grab Brent, congrats! [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/beers.gif[/img] ~ Pete
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I like real cars best...especially the REAL real ones! |
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