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#1
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Canuck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">whose sheet metal are you using, Dynacorn or AMD? </div></div>
I get most of it from OPGI. I'm not sure where they source it? Maybe someone else knows? |
#2
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Well, she's out. Seem extremely sturdy with the bracing system. Got to patch a couple little floor mounting areas then get the new one back in there.
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#3
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[img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
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Bill Pritchard 73 Camaro RS Z28, L82, M20, C60 |
#4
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So I'm finding out this whole restoration thing aint as easy as you and your peers make it look! Check out the new floor.
First, the fender mount bracket bottom tab doesn't slide down through the rocker like the old one did. Old rocker was spot welded through outer rocker, then tab, then inner rocker. Trim tab or cut spot welds in rocker and weld as original? ![]() Second, it appears I have the same problem in the drivers rear. Tab (inner/outer wheel wells) that slides into rocker is too long and bottoming out inside the rocker. I'm going to trim that one. ![]() I think the tunnel misalignment is from the front rocker problem and will see if it fixes with what you recommend from the first pic? ![]() |
#5
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Looks like you are doing a good job. I is an SOB finding all the spot welds. I did a Mopar for a friend that had 12 spot welds on one side and almost 30 on the opposite side. This part is time consuming
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1967 Camaro conv (first car) 1969 Camaro street car 1967 Super Stock SS/JA Joe Scott car |
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