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#2
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The subframe is not coming off!
As a matter of fact, I finally got onto the front end today and got the passenger side inner fender cleaned up. It actually dialed back rather nicely and has left a cool patina with a few wear marks being left behind from the heater hoses having had rubbed through the original paint close to the mid fender clamp. I'll continue on tomorrow with the inner front subframe rails and will then work my way across the K members and up onto the other side. Once complete I will then go after the outer control arms and the suspension from the wheel well side of things. Happy with the progress thus far and in no rush. ![]() Before hitting the inner fender with Lloyd's graffiti remover. ![]() After a scuff and a few wipe downs, it's looking a bit aged. I like it!
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. ![]() |
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PeteLeathersac (02-05-2020) |
#3
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Sometimes a little trial and error with cleaning can lead to a bonehead move. Case in point was to clean the original smog trees which in all fairness were fairly decent, to begin with. Further to that, I would have said they previously fit the bill of survivor condition. Until I screwed that up. I thought the evapo-rust being as mild as it is would simply clean them up a touch, but dunking them in there even for a short period was a big mistake. In a matter of about 20 minutes it leveled the original coating and they came out looking bare without any original coating. Like the copperish colored base or what was left of it simply wiped right off of them. This was just before MCACN and I was pretty choked at myself for not leaving those alone.
Since then I have tried finding someone who could reapply the phosphate coating and really never found anyone who could replace the factory-like finish. I read some posts about dunking them in a phosphate solution, and that others had painted them black with some phosphate spray paint but decided to try something else and see what brown colors I could find. Enter Stove Bright high temp primer and paint. I found this reddish metallic primer rated for 1200 degrees and then paired that with a can of Bark Brown which looked close to the original copper-like tone. Ordered them from Amazon in late December and they finally showed up about 5 weeks later. Needless to say, I prepped the tubes and today I put a couple of coats of the red primer on them before hitting them with the bark brown. It isn't exactly copper colored but I sure like the low luster satin finish they now have after a couple of coats of this high temp paint. With the engine already having been rebuilt and painted by others, I'm planning to tumble the exhaust manifolds next week and get them looking more factory-like. With that now in the works, the smog trees should look right at home when the engine bay is all back together in a few short weeks. Once I put some heat through them I'll see how they blend in I suppose? Note to self, evapo-rust and original smog trees do not mix. That original finish is quite delicate and does not play well with chemicals. Now, if you ever want to repaint a set of smog trees...here's what I ended up finding through Amazon. IMHO, the results are not too bad, in spite of my previous lack of judgment. (lol) Here's the stuff... ![]() The high temp primer and the brown paint I used to refinish the trees. ![]() Here's how they looked after dunking them in Evapo-Rust (big no-no) ![]() And here they are after being refinished. Hoping these fade a touch after some heat cycling. The paint was fresh here and they have darkened up some more since drying.
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. ![]() |
#4
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Great work G.
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#5
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You definitely have to be careful of Evaporust. I put some brake hardware in and all nice the paint marks came off. I just use high concentrate vinegar now. It's a lot cheaper too.
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-Dave Semper Fi! 69 Camaro SS396 L34 X66 |
#6
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Yeah Evaporust will destroy or remove any original plating... zinc, cad, phosphate etc. I too had to learn that by experience
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I ain't nobody, dork. |
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NorCam (02-07-2020) |
#7
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Making good progress on the floors and subframe the past couple of days. My US deliveries also arrived today with a few nice original parts that will complement the differential going back into the car. I have my helper coming tomorrow so the fuel line will go back in followed by the differential. That will allow me to get the front end in the air next week and start cleaning the front suspension with the wheels off the car. Boogying right along here now.
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. ![]() Last edited by NorCam; 02-07-2020 at 02:28 AM. |
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#8
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Floors are all cleaned up behind the firewall and things are starting to go back together now. I mounted the original tank but knowing that the car's getting a concourse exhaust system with resonators and chrome tailpipes, the dented old tank is really made for a bit of an opposite detraction so I've opted to set it aside and store it for future consideration. Also decided to blow in some black paint on the diff as I was struggling with the look when I finished cleaning it up. There were a number of bare spots exposed and I needed to cover those up. I shot both tubes with a single coat of black and it is what it is.
Another concern was stripping the black paint at the bottom of the firewall where the lower floor seam meets up. All along the bottom of the toe boards and the areas around the tunnel had to a lot of gray primer being exposed after cleaning. And I would say it's plenty more than what would be considered normal or acceptable. I'm thinking the shop that reinstalled the motor, washed it down with thinners before they shot the black in for the former owner's brother. In any case, I wasn't digging all the gray so I fogged in the areas where the straight primer was exposed and blended it in so it looks better. I'm happy with the results of those decisions and it's looking miles ahead of the mess that the previous owner created. Here are a few shots of the floors and the rear end now that the diff and the new tank are under the body. Once I'm finished upfront and the motor and transmission are reinstalled, the Gardner exhaust will be hung and I'm sure it will balance the old and the new. Not quite as I had planned for with a total dial back to original, but a compromise that I am totally OK with. Still, a lot of work to be completed on the front half of the car so I will see how that unfolds as I start cleaning the front clip this weekend. Fingers crossed on any more surprises upfront, but ready to deal with those in any case. ![]() Floors are nicely cleaned up with all of the factory finish now exposed and intact. ![]() Here's a view looking down the tunnel after all the black spray paint was removed. ![]() Another shot of the back with the differential back under the car and the broken leaf repaired. ![]() And finally, a view from the back. Yeah, I know...new tank but it will match the new Gardner exhaust that's going around it soon.
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. ![]() Last edited by NorCam; 02-08-2020 at 01:36 AM. |
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PeteLeathersac (02-08-2020) |
#9
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Looking awesome Graeme! I really like what you're doing with this Z. I have a pair of original chrome tailpipes that were stored in an attic for 40 years - they would be perfect for an original car like yours. Let me know if you have interest.
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SOLD 1969 427 COPO Camaro Lemans Blue/Black, M22 4 speed, 15,800 original miles |
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NorCam (02-08-2020) |
#10
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Sent you a message. Thanks
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I like solid lifter cars, big cams and cars w/ 3 pedals in them. ![]() |
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