![]() Dedicated to the Promotion and Preservation of American Muscle Cars, Dealer built Supercars and COPO cars. |
#11
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Looks to be making good power!
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#12
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Norm, you're right about most of the Mobil 1 blends but the 15w50 Mobil 1 still has the old formula containing the higher(than today's) levels of zinc and phosphorus. Here's the information from Mobil 1's Product Data Sheet.
"Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 is formulated to provide outstanding engine protection for high performance engines and for consumers who want a higher viscosity oil and higher anti-wear performance ( ZDDP) than typically required by modern vehicles."
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1971 BFG "Tirebird" |
#13
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Has anybody used/tried the Joe Gibbs oil? I heard it is REAL good.
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#14
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According to the oil company Chemist's I've talked to, you need 1100 ppm ZDDP for the old flat tappet cams. Rotella T has 1200 ppm, Valvoline VR1 has 1200, the 'not street legal' has 1300 BUT you need to change the oil every 500 miles because it doesn't have all the additives, Brad Penn is the old Kendall GT1 and has 1500 ppm.
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#15
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Thanks for all the good info! I have not yet fired up the Yenko for the season, and plan to change the oil first - just wasn't sure which oil to buy! I've got a local NAPA, might have try this Valvoline VR1 or 'N.S.L.' stuff.
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#16
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I highly recommend the VR1,but you should always change your oil before you store it.The previous years useage alone breaks down and weakens your oils defenses considerably,and just leaving that sitting on your journals,walls,lobes,crankcase etc. for 6 months or more is when the chemical damage really begins to attack those vital internal surfaces.-Ron Paul
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#17
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I told you what to use! I listen to YOU so its your turn to listen to ME! Or I will just deal with Benjamin.
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#18
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I hear ya, but I'm not gonna buy a 'special blend' from some dude down south that I've never heard of - it's probably got moonshine in it!
![]() Good to know about changing the oil b4 you store it. I always thought it was a good way to make sure all of the old oil had time to drain down into the pan!
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#19
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What do you mean a special blend. It is Brad Penn from Pennsyvania. That is the old Kendall Motor Oil factory. (green oil) Special blend?? Type in Brad Penn on Ebay and you will see his website. Pete can also get you Brad Penn but only 5W30, 10W30, 20W50 etc. I wanted 15W40 so I got it from him.
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#20
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Redline.
“We are well aware of the problem and we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products”. They are not producing API approved oils so they don’t have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the “new, improved and approved” ones that destroy flat tappet engines! “We just build the best lubricants possible”. Sounds stupid, doesn’t it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our cars. I use Redline in my turbo car. Because the turbo is only oil cooled, not water cooled, I wanted something that would absolutely not break down at high temps. Got the added benfit of high levels of zinc. Mike Miller, who writes the BMW car club tech column swears by this stuff. When I put their MTL in my Trans and Gear lube in my final drive, I honestly got increased gas mileage over a 6 month period. About .3 mpg. Not much, but measurable. Great products, but you have to plan ahead, as you can't get it at Wally World. Lynn |
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