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#11
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I am curious about the process Yenko mechanics may have used to remove the factory engine indentifications from the front fenders of the '67 cars. I doubt they'd be too interested in removing inner/outer fenders to access the factory speed nuts, but aside from trying to break the pins off the castings with vise grips or some other hack master method that's about the only choice. I'm assuming any new badging would have been attached using "push clips." Any thoughts, experiences?
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#12
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I would guess that you can just start removing fender bolts until you can get enough room to reach your hand up to remove the emblem. The fender would come off fairly easy when the car was new but I think it can be done without complete fender removal. Different story on an older car where the rusty speed nut clips break and the nuts spin. If they replace bolts and shims as they found them the emblem replacement should come out ok. They weren't building show cars where they check the fender/door gaps with a dial caliber [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
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#13
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Were the '69 Yenko cars' emblems attached with push-clips? I assumed that the time involved with attaching them was what caused Yenko to break off the pins on the '70 Yenko Novas, and use double sided tape. No Yenko Deuces have been found with pins, all have been tape - even on the decklid.
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#14
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While I've never personally removed a Yenko emblem from an untouched Yenko car, I'd have to say that at least the fender crests were attached using "push clips" in 1969. My brother owns numerous examples of original Yenko emblems, including the '69 pinned crests that have straight cylindrical pins, not tapered at the ends like a GM type emblem. Any used original examples we have ever found have had no "thread marks" on the studs as would be left by a speed nut, and most other dealers of this time used push clips to intsall their dealer name badges. (we'll use my brother's original Grossman emblem as an example, it still retain's it's original push clips) Push clips weren't anything new in '69 and they're always easier to use than trying to access the backside of a panel to install a fast/speed nut. The shape of the original pins on a '69 Yenko R/W/B crest, in addition to the lack of any we've ever found having thread marks on them leads me to believe that most if not all were attached using push pins, the exception being perhaps the easy to access tailpan emblems. Another interesting emblem note however, is the pair or original '69 Yenko Chevelle 427 emblems in my brother's collection. These 427 emblems, the type with the bar underneath, have been filed at an angle to neatly fit the eyebrow moulding on the '69 Chevelle. I believe this to be originally done at Yenko as they were removed from the car very early in it's life. Certainly not all Yenko Chevelles got this extra time consuming detail treatment, but this example shows it's safe to say that Yenko mechanics would do whatever it took to make it happen. Also interesting to note is the fact that any original 68 style Yenko 427 numerals we've dug up (the ones without the bar underneath) have had threaded studs, like fine machine screw threads not fast nut threads, which looks like evidence of these being installed with regular old square machine nuts, like the kind you'd find in an erector set, but then again these were used (most often, but not always) at the fronts of the fenders on 68 Camaros and even some 69 Chevelles, where they are easier to reach the backsides. My brother also has period photos of Yenko cars sporting both the 68 style (no bar) 427's and the 69 style (bar underneath) on the same car. So mixing and matching wasn't a problem for the Yenko mechanics either. I know of at least one '69 Yenko Camaro that was sold new at Yenko with out any crests on the fenders at all. I'd be curious to see what original untouched cars like Bill Hunter's Daytona Yellow X66 have holding the emblems on. I'd bet you'd find push clips on the fenders and hood, and perhaps nuts on the tailpan.
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#15
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I agree 100%, especially the details of the funky stuff happening at Yenko. If something is found to be different on a Yenko car, 9 times out of 10 it's on a car sold out of Yenko. Generally, the cookie cutter cars were sold out of other dealers - in my experience.
Good summary, 'kid'!
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Marlin 70 Yenko Nova-350/360, 4speed M21, 4.10 Posi (Daddy's Ride) 69 SS Nova-396/375hp, 4speed M20, 3.55 Posi (Benjamin's Ride) 67 RS Camaro-327/250hp, 2speed Glide, & 3.08 Open (Danny's Ride) |
#16
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The kid is really somthin" eh? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif[/img]
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Frank Magallon |
#17
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'69 Yenko Chevelle unrestored
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#18
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other side
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Rick Nelson Musclecar Restoration and Design, Inc (retired) www.musclecarrestorationanddesign.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62r-6vgk2_8 specialized in (only real) LS6 Chevelle restorations |
#19
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One way they used to remove those hard to get at emblems is a sharpened putty knife slid behind the emblem against the pin, and hit with a hammer. That usually shears off the pin and you can then replace the emblem with the new one useing push clips/barrel nuts. Whole process takes about 5 mins. Schonye
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#20
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[ QUOTE ]
The kid is really somthin" eh? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggthumpup.gif[/img] [/ QUOTE ] [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] |
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