Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe

[Postsedan]

When your driveshaft loop arrives from Dave....just say &quot;My driveshaft loop arrived&quot; no pics are necessary [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif[/img] [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/naughty.gif[/img]

Dan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

The only complaint I have ever heard on here is not enough pictures:-)

I spent a few house Sunday Feb 14th (Valentines Day) Oh boy:-( in the garage starting the frame repairs, I perfectly cut holes for the perfect rings I have made up. (I was concerned that inaccuracy would cause the body mounts not to line up, so I did the work +- &quot;1/64 :-)

I flipped the rings upside down in one picture each to show the fit, they don't look as perfect in the pictures with the chamfer/weld prep facing up.







Ryan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

[m22mike]

[quote=Ryan1969Chevelle]

Ryan
Just curious, what is the yellow goop [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/dunno.gif[/img]
Mike

[Postsedan]

13 pics [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/no.gif[/img]

Looks very nice....now get it ALL off to PC [img]<<GRAEMLIN_URL>>/biggthumpup.gif[/img]

Well done.

Dan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Got a few more items to wrap up before everything gets shiny:-)

Remove seals from the axle tubes of the rear end, will borrow a bigger slide hammer with an attachment so I can screw into the seals and drag them out.

Need to weld in the repair rings on the 2 body mount holes, RamblinDealer offered his MIG, I stopped by tonight to check electrical connection..... Looks like the dryer plug will work.

At the same time I will weld up the extra passenger side upper shock mount extra holes.

Both front brake drums have damage at the turned area where the dust cap mounts, so I dropped them at a machine shop to turn the face flat and turn the ID so the bearing race will come out.

I have two recommended places quoting media blast and powder coat so my hope is to be done these little items at the same time as I get a reasonable quote to make SHINY parts again

Ryan

Also got in touch with two more owners of 1969 Olds Cutlass S Sports Coupe W-31 4 speed cars:-) Stefano shared my contact info with the new owner of his Burnished Brown/Parchment post car and I also made a connection with an Olds guy who looked at my car and passed before I got a crack at it. (Small world)

Also decided on all the parts needed for the rear end rebuild (thanks Nick Morocco for tech support and Greg Rollin at Supercars Unlimited.

Also put in another InLine tube order z bar rebuilt parts, etc, etc, and an order in Barrie at EarlyBirds AMK bolt kit, body mount kit, etc

[junior supercar]

re: that washer bottle, I have an NOS one for my car. The one which probably wouldn't work for your or my car because the bolt holes are too big, I'm going to hang on to for another project for right now.

btw, Greg Rollin at Supercars knows his stuff. GREAT guy!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ryan1969Chevelle</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Also put in another InLine tube order z bar rebuilt parts, etc, etc, and an order in Barrie at EarlyBirds AMK bolt kit, body mount kit, etc

</div></div>

the AMK body mount bolts are chevelle bolts with a shoulder iirc. best I can tell, those aren't correct for Lansing built cars. To further confuse, I have two 69 Fremont built cars. One has the bolts with the shoulder. The other has Lansing bolts, ie no shoulder. Also the square nuts for the two body mount bolts at the cowl are not correct for Lansing cars, yet that is all AMK offers. Lansing cars have hex nuts with a flange. To add more confusion, I have a friend who parted a Fremont built 70 Cutlass Supreme and it had hex flange nuts at the cowl body mount bolts. These are nit picky restoration details, but those who know Lansing cars and W-machines know what to look for.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: junior supercar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">re: that washer bottle, I have an NOS one for my car. The one which probably wouldn't work for your or my car because the bolt holes are too big, I'm going to hang on to for another project for right now.

btw, Greg Rollin at Supercars knows his stuff. GREAT guy!!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ryan1969Chevelle</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Also put in another InLine tube order z bar rebuilt parts, etc, etc, and an order in Barrie at EarlyBirds AMK bolt kit, body mount kit, etc

</div></div>

the AMK body mount bolts are chevelle bolts with a shoulder iirc. best I can tell, those aren't correct for Lansing built cars. To further confuse, I have two 69 Fremont built cars. One has the bolts with the shoulder. The other has Lansing bolts, ie no shoulder. Also the square nuts for the two body mount bolts at the cowl are not correct for Lansing cars, yet that is all AMK offers. Lansing cars have hex nuts with a flange. To add more confusion, I have a friend who parted a Fremont built 70 Cutlass Supreme and it had hex flange nuts at the cowl body mount bolts. These are nit picky restoration details, but those who know Lansing cars and W-machines know what to look for. </div></div>

Thanks Chris,

These details make all the difference!!!

Please keep an eye on my project and help me get these details correct!!!

Ryan