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#1
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rixls6</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rixls6</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ryan1969Chevelle</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Checked into the driveshaft loop place I had picked out and they no longer make or sell them:-(
Looking for the bolt on type as inconspicuous as possible:-) Ryan </div></div> I may have one of those bolt-on units here, but will have to check. Took it off a car a few years back, and don't remember if I sold it or not. If I find it, I'll get it to you. </div></div> Sorry Ryan, I apparently sold that bolt-on loop along with some other performance stuff awhile back, just didn't remember specifically. </div></div> All good, thanks for looking, Dave hooked me up:-) Ryan
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold 1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold 1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31 |
#2
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Ryan, I have a spare Caruso loop. no drilling of any holes required. It has a "lip" (for lack of a better description) that rests on crossmember and mounts to transmission mount, powdercoated black, new in box. I had envisioned racing my green car, but have decided not too; funding one race car is enough. Try to do a search for "Caruso driveshaft loop" if you are interested. I think I paid about $80.00 plus shipping and you can have it for that. See if Rick has his, if not and you wanna see pics of this let me know.
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#3
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DW31S</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ryan, I have a spare Caruso loop. no drilling of any holes required. It has a "lip" (for lack of a better description) that rests on crossmember and mounts to transmission mount, powdercoated black, new in box. I had envisioned racing my green car, but have decided not too; funding one race car is enough. Try to do a search for "Caruso driveshaft loop" if you are interested. I think I paid about $80.00 plus shipping and you can have it for that. See if Rick has his, if not and you wanna see pics of this let me know. </div></div>
This is the same part I was trying to buy, he no longer makes them. TBD.... casually looking into this. Ryan
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold 1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold 1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31 |
#4
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Thanks guys, sounds like a couple good options.
I will look up the Caruso loop and check out what Rick has:-) I need this if I go faster than 13.99 at PSMCDR:-) (right now this seems a little distant:-) Ryan
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold 1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold 1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31 |
#5
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Wow Ryan, this all looks all too familiar. As you know, I'm doing basically the exact same thing
a few points based on others feedback/comments on the last couple pages inner fenders are plastic, powdercoating is a bad idea. You don't want to melt them as real Ram Rod/W-31 inners can't be found. but I'm sure you knew that. center link - I have seen them with a blue tint also driveshaft loop, the Caruso would work perfectly. I was going to suggest Ram Air Restoration Enterprise as they have a no drill loop. the finned rear drums aren't correct. the bell or mushroom style right in front are correct.
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1969 Cutlass S W-31 - 13.86@100 TnT US41 2009 1970 Tempest GT-37 400ci 4bbl 4sp - [email protected] PSMCDR 2011 1970 F-85 - daily driver or clock it with a sun dial plus others |
#6
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: junior supercar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow Ryan, this all looks all too familiar. As you know, I'm doing basically the exact same thing
a few points based on others feedback/comments on the last couple pages inner fenders are plastic, powdercoating is a bad idea. You don't want to melt them as real Ram Rod/W-31 inners can't be found. but I'm sure you knew that. center link - I have seen them with a blue tint also driveshaft loop, the Caruso would work perfectly. I was going to suggest Ram Air Restoration Enterprise as they have a no drill loop. the finned rear drums aren't correct. the bell or mushroom style right in front are correct. Hi Chris, it was great to meet at PSMCDR, and MCACN!!!! Yup, no plastic in the oven:-) I have the tie rods already, and have the pitman arm and center link on order, I will see what they look like and I am thinking about coating the steering components with Boe-Shield or one of the recommended protectants so my chassis restoration has just that one more step towards perfection:-) (Slippery slope) I will check that DSL supplier as well. The have procured non-finned drums for all the way around:-) (The finned rears will be blasted and powder coated for spare, but not machined, if the cost is reasonable) PS: Remember we found the one side of my car has the W-30,31,32 front fender support bracket and special Phillips screws and the other has the normal non W-Machine bracket and bolts........ you mentioned possibly having an extra........ LMK I can't remember which side, I will have to look. "OAI W-Machine" wiper washer fluid bottle? (Mine has a little piece missing for the corner, casually looking) 4 speed shifter floor hump out of a rust free donor car? Ryan </div></div>
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1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold 1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold 1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31 |
#7
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ryan1969Chevelle</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Hi Chris, it was great to meet at PSMCDR, and MCACN!!!! Yup, no plastic in the oven:-) I have the tie rods already, and have the pitman arm and center link on order, I will see what they look like and I am thinking about coating the steering components with Boe-Shield or one of the recommended protectants so my chassis restoration has just that one more step towards perfection:-) (Slippery slope) I will check that DSL supplier as well. The have procured non-finned drums for all the way around:-) (The finned rears will be blasted and powder coated for spare, but not machined, if the cost is reasonable) PS: Remember we found the one side of my car has the W-30,31,32 front fender support bracket and special Phillips screws and the other has the normal non W-Machine bracket and bolts........ you mentioned possibly having an extra........ LMK I can't remember which side, I will have to look. "OAI W-Machine" wiper washer fluid bottle? (Mine has a little piece missing for the corner, casually looking) 4 speed shifter floor hump out of a rust free donor car? Ryan </div></div> I've only been able to locate complete car sets of those phillips head "bolts". I have some singles still on braces or fenders and can't get them off. I have stuff off getting plated, so let me see what happens when it all comes back. I thought it was driver side. as for that frame discussion, I would vote for dipping and e-coating. There's a place outside Milw that costs $1000. I had some items powdercoated years ago and just not happy with them. However, I did have some rims powdercoated, then I painted the correct color on the face and those came out nice. The powdercoating does add thickness to the parts and the rims always seem to stick on axle flanges and area on the front drums where the bearing go. These are the SSII on my W-31 if one is wondering. I just need to sand that opening in the rim down more, but without going all the way to bare metal. the washer bottle is the same as all other 68/69, it's just bolted onto the other inner fender. I have a REAL nice one, but I compared it to the one off my W-31 and the mounting holes are larger. Yet there is no evidence of them ever having a screw installed to them. weird. I can't help you on the shifter hump. Boeshield is good stuff. I'm using it on the fuel tank in my GT-37. And on the brake lines on my truck since the salt is just eating the underside of it. This spring it gets new brake lines that are already coated.
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1969 Cutlass S W-31 - 13.86@100 TnT US41 2009 1970 Tempest GT-37 400ci 4bbl 4sp - [email protected] PSMCDR 2011 1970 F-85 - daily driver or clock it with a sun dial plus others |
#8
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: junior supercar</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ryan1969Chevelle</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Hi Chris, it was great to meet at PSMCDR, and MCACN!!!! Yup, no plastic in the oven:-) I have the tie rods already, and have the pitman arm and center link on order, I will see what they look like and I am thinking about coating the steering components with Boe-Shield or one of the recommended protectants so my chassis restoration has just that one more step towards perfection:-) (Slippery slope) I will check that DSL supplier as well. The have procured non-finned drums for all the way around:-) (The finned rears will be blasted and powder coated for spare, but not machined, if the cost is reasonable) PS: Remember we found the one side of my car has the W-30,31,32 front fender support bracket and special Phillips screws and the other has the normal non W-Machine bracket and bolts........ you mentioned possibly having an extra........ LMK I can't remember which side, I will have to look. "OAI W-Machine" wiper washer fluid bottle? (Mine has a little piece missing for the corner, casually looking) 4 speed shifter floor hump out of a rust free donor car? Ryan </div></div> I've only been able to locate complete car sets of those phillips head "bolts". I have some singles still on braces or fenders and can't get them off. I have stuff off getting plated, so let me see what happens when it all comes back. I thought it was driver side. as for that frame discussion, I would vote for dipping and e-coating. There's a place outside Milw that costs $1000. I had some items powdercoated years ago and just not happy with them. However, I did have some rims powdercoated, then I painted the correct color on the face and those came out nice. The powdercoating does add thickness to the parts and the rims always seem to stick on axle flanges and area on the front drums where the bearing go. These are the SSII on my W-31 if one is wondering. I just need to sand that opening in the rim down more, but without going all the way to bare metal. the washer bottle is the same as all other 68/69, it's just bolted onto the other inner fender. I have a REAL nice one, but I compared it to the one off my W-31 and the mounting holes are larger. Yet there is no evidence of them ever having a screw installed to them. weird. I can't help you on the shifter hump. Boeshield is good stuff. I'm using it on the fuel tank in my GT-37. And on the brake lines on my truck since the salt is just eating the underside of it. This spring it gets new brake lines that are already coated. </div></div> Thanks Chris Keep me in mind as you search for parts you seem connected!! I will do a sample piece or two when I decide on a powder coater to ensure we are on the same page. Is the good washer fluid bottle on hold for my W-31 or yours? :-) Imagine for a minute...... PSMCDR 20?? We can race our W-31's winner buys dinner!! Ryan
__________________
1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold 1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold 1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31 |
#9
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Ryan, I sent you pictures via text.
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#10
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That is the perfect part Dave!!
Many thanks for keeping my restoration on your radar!! Now I will need to get moving so I can officially require a DSL at 13.99........... Ryan
__________________
1969 Beaumont 350 Auto White Sold 1969 Beaumont 307 Auto Green Sold 1969 Chevelle SS 396-L35 Auto Blue Sold 1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass 'S' Sports Coupe W31 |
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