Ryan Weaver's 1969 Olds Cutlass S W31 Club Coupe

[Postsedan]

Nice

Dan

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

I have been working away at my car, I didn’t want to share till I had a better feel for what’s up. I have been chasing a noise I don’t like. It sounds like a rocker. I have talked to Comp Cams tech support, and the engine builder. (Both were helpful) I am still working through all the potentials to get to the bottom of this.

I stayed with the PSMCDR compliant non roller rockers, I hate the whole concept of these metal on metal archechic crap but I digress.
All 16 push rods spin at idle.
All rocker bolts were tight.
There are no signs of debris, under each valve cover is spotless.
The entire valve train is Comp Cams.
I did cold starts with one valve cover off (passenger one day, drivers the next day) made a mess but saw what I would consider proper oil flow after a normal short delay.
There seems to be 0.100” of lifter preload. (My measurements are ok but I am kind of getting a feel for this....) CC says 0.050” to 0.060” is the minimum... I didn’t ask yet what the max is....
A few push rods are close to the side of the hole as they pass through the head. CC wasn’t concerned he said the Chrome moly pushrods I used are fine even if it does touch the side..... this kind of put his advice in question to me but I listened.

More pictures and videos to share but need some shut eye.

Again I didn’t want to share but have had so much support over the years I figured what the heck. For some reason I had a feeling the boutique 25K engine build would be resuggested, (my insecurities took over)

Ryan W31

[Lynn]

Just to make sure, put a stethascope on the top of the fuel pump and listen for a ticking noise. If the sping is broken, it can sound JUST LIKE a loose rocker.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Originally Posted by Lynn

Just to make sure, put a stethascope on the top of the fuel pump and listen for a ticking noise. If the sping is broken, it can sound JUST LIKE a loose rocker.

Thanks Lynn.

That is one spot I have not checked with the stethoscope.

Question: can you hear an exhaust leak with a stethoscope? I have listened to the exhaust from above with it but don’t hear anything untoward...

I should say that I didn’t hear any noises during the run in or dyno tuning, so the potential exsists that this pesky sound is an accessory bolted on afterward.

When the lifters are on the base circle I can spin the pushrods which I gather is a good sign. At the same time the rocker can be pushed side to side making the exact same sound I don’t like..... so far my most likely root cause is that the rockers and pivots make this much noise naturally and it is normal. TBD.

The original pivots are aluminum (by memory) but this CC set up is all hard steel (possibly louder due to steel on steel vs steel on aluminum?)

Moving forward each day!!

Ryan W31

PS: we are making a date with the Stagers for a first cruise but holidays are getting in the way.... it may be August before we go for ice cream..... this is letting me sort out issues anyways.

[Lynn]

Take the probe off the stethescope and listen with the open vac hose for an exhaust leak.

If you get close to an exhaust leak, you will know it immediately.

The exhaust leak will also be slightly louder under a slight load, so best way is to have someone in the car (that you TRUST) put it in drive with their foot on the brake and give it just enough gas to get it over 1000 rpm. Exhaust noise will be more pronounced.

Good luck.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Originally Posted by Lynn

Take the probe off the stethescope and listen with the open vac hose for an exhaust leak.

If you get close to an exhaust leak, you will know it immediately.

The exhaust leak will also be slightly louder under a slight load, so best way is to have someone in the car (that you TRUST) put it in drive with their foot on the brake and give it just enough gas to get it over 1000 rpm. Exhaust noise will be more pronounced.

Good luck.

Thanks Lynn, I will try the no probe listening.

My car is a 4 speed so I will have my hunny rev it up a little.

Ryan W31

[PeteLeathersac]

'

Adding to Lynn's good advice above, exhaust leaks are best checked w/ engine cold as some disappear when engines warm up.
Have you tried removing the belts and running the engine for a moment without WP/Alt etc turning as this may help isolate whether they may be the problem or not?
Another thing to try is disconnecting each plug lead individually one by one w/ engine running to see if the sound changes...this sometimes helps indicate which cyl. has the problem as you're removing detonation from the cyl. and they're now only rotating.
Doubtful w/ a fresh engine but sometimes listening at the tailpipe and carb w/ air cleaner removed helps indicate bad valves...exhaust valve if TP noise and Intake if @ carb.

Great to hear you're getting closer to taking the Stagers for a rip!
Please say hello for me also LMK when it's happening as there's a small chance I may be able to drop by on one of my trips to/from Woodstock as I'm usually there about once a month.

~ Pete


.

[Ryan1969Chevelle]

Originally Posted by PeteLeathersac

'

Adding to Lynn's good advice above, exhaust leaks are best checked w/ engine cold as some disappear when engines warm up.
Have you tried removing the belts and running the engine for a moment without WP/Alt etc turning as this may help isolate whether they may be the problem or not?
Another thing to try is disconnecting each plug lead individually one by one w/ engine running to see if the sound changes...this sometimes helps indicate which cyl. has the problem as you're removing detonation from the cyl. and they're now only rotating.
Doubtful w/ a fresh engine but sometimes listening at the tailpipe and carb w/ air cleaner removed helps indicate bad valves...exhaust valve if TP noise and Intake if @ carb.

Great to hear you're getting closer to taking the Stagers for a rip!
Please say hello for me also LMK when it's happening as there's a small chance I may be able to drop by on one of my trips to/from Woodstock as I'm usually there about once a month.

~ Pete


.

Thanks for the advice!!!

I will let you know as soon as we agree on a date!!

Ryan W31

[DW31S]

Have you gone through the car and checked to make sure evrything is tight? Often times, after items run through heat cycles the hardware needs to be tightened/adjusted. Get the engine up to normal operating temperature and then check exhaust manifold bolts; the noise, if it a loose bolt, should disappear after tightening if that is the cause for your ticking noise. Valvetrain noise and exhaust leaks can have a very similar sound. You said you have Comp Cams parts that are replacements of original style? Is this correct? If so, you shouldn't have an issue as originally, there really wasn't any further adjustment after installation. I doubt FJ would've harmed anything in the dyno room; he is a seasoned veteran and knows the ropes. Does the noise get louder or change when the engine is warm/hot? Kinda hard to do with a stick, but as others have asked, does it change under a load? If you have to, jam on the e-brake, put chocks on all four wheels, and let clutch slip a bit while in first gear and see if what you're hearing changes; do this only as a last resort, and if you aren't comfortable trying it, don't. Unplug PCV and see what happens; I've seen dimestore PCV valves make noise, but not loud enough to mimick an exhaust leak. Is your heat riser working properly?
Other members have given great advice/ideas to isolate noise.

[Postsedan]

As always Great advise Dave.....true on the PCV Valves.

Dan